From Elephants to Oriental Kwai, Kanchanburi.

A Buddhist blessing for the ox.

It was hard to say goodbye to ‘our’ elephants but we were looking forward to staying at our favourite place in the whole of Thailand, Oriental Kwai resort. Before then however we were stopping at a couple of places en route, just to break up the journey. The first stop was Lampang which is famous for the horse & carts which years ago were seen everywhere in Thailand as a form of transport. The town is now one of the few places where they’re used but these days they take the tourists on sightseeing trips around the town. Yes, we did do it, but it wasn’t terribly interesting though. If you go to Lampang, the place to eat is Aroy One Baht. Its absolutely manic with young waiters (and they were all young), racing around. The entertainment is free and the rice is just one Baht, which is about 2pence; the place is a magnet for tourists and watch out …the food is fiery, but delicious.

Around Lampang.

Leaving our hotel Auangkham Resort in Lampang we drove a few kilometers out of town to Wat Phrathat Lampang Luang. I loved the prayer lanterns at the entrance to this ancient Buddhist temple which is said to enshrine,(one of the many relics) of the Buddha.

The entrance to Wat Phrathat Lampang Luang.

Driving in this part of Thailand is so easy. The roads are good and pretty quiet. The only time we cursed was going along an area near to a sugar cane factory. There were lorries heading there in all directions, all over-loaded with sugar cane depositing quite a lot on the road. There were also small lorries with huge loads of big round bales, at least twice as wide as the lorry which virtually ground to a halt whenever there was a hill. Getting past these wide loads wasn’t easy but after a pit stop for lunch we arrived at the old town of Kamphaeng Phet. The town is famous for its Archaeological sites and historical Park and was once a massive fortress protecting the west of Thailand.

A few of the ancient ruins in the Park.

This historical Park is large and is a photographer’s dream. It’s located within a forest giving some degree of shade to the extensive monuments and ruins which cover the whole area. If you’re a keen cyclist you can hire bikes to cycle around the sites and explore. There is a road which takes you through the park which we drove along, hopping out along the way whenever we saw an interesting ruin. We then drove to the Visitors Centre where we paid a few Baht to wander around more of the site which has many landmarks, statues and points of interest. The light coming through the ancient monuments was superb that day, very soft which enhanced the setting.

Kamphaeng Phet
Kamphaeng Phet

We finally dragged ourselves away from the park as the heat had got to us so we headed to our hotel for the night. Strange place, very impersonal, even charged us for having a bottle of water out of the fridge but it had a nice pool and as we were the only people staying, we had the pool all to ourselves. I’m not going to name the hotel but I will mention that we had an excellent meal that evening by the river at the Baan Rim Nam River View restaurant. No-one could argue with the name of the restaurant, it’s right by the River Ping and has great views across to the town. This family-run restaurant is reasonably priced, the service was good and the fish, excellent.

Having paid our dues at the hotel we were on our way to Kanchanaburi and Oriental Kwai and couldn’t wait to get there. Could it really be the seventh time we’ve stayed there? The wonderful thing is …it never changes. How do you improve on perfection? It is without doubt our favourite place to stay and by that I mean anywhere in the world. The owners are lovely; the staff can’t do enough for you; the facilities are excellent; the grounds are idyllic and the food is delicious. It’s hard for us not to go back each year.

Oriental Kwai.
Room service with a smile.

Because I’ve written about this area in my Blog before including the places of interest I have just add a few pictures and a short description of those places we went to this time.

Wat Metta Tham Photiyan Kanachanaburi

Watt Metta Tham Photiyan is the most famous Chinese temple in Kanchanaburi province. There are several huge halls all very fascinating, teak wood is everywhere. One houses a huge statue of a Chinese goddess with eighteen arms. The complex is expanding quickly and already in one of the halls are many statues made of carved wood ready to be erected in place. The temple is 23kilometres out of Kanchanaburi.

Wat Ban Tham

A great temple this one as long as you don’t mind a steep climb. Going up and through the dragon’s body enthralls the children and adults too. Great views of the river from the top, you might find a monk there, sitting by a small tent, who for a few Baht will give you a blessing. You may feel after climbing all those steps that you deserve one! Wat Ban Tham is definitely worth a visit not only for the exhilerating walk to the top and the view but along the way you can divert off to go inside a large cave full of stalactites and stalagmites.

Wat Ban Tham
Wat Ban Tham cave

Another temple worth a visit is Wat Tham Pu Wa which is also full of stalactites and stalagmites and buddhist shrines. Don’t let the entrance fool you, the architecture is influenced apparently by the Khmer Arts and is not the most interesting building on the site. It is however the main entrance to this huge cave which has two floors, lots of statues and winding walkways often behind the huge stalagmites. This Wat is a renowned meditation centre and attracts both Buddhist and Chinese followers who come to worship the statues depicting each of the Chinese astrological signs. This Temple is close to Watt Metta Tham and so it’s possible to visit both on the same morning.

Wat Ban Phu Wa

And finally …

By the river Kwai, Kanchanburi.

The town of Kanchanaburi is definitely worth visiting. Most visitors congregate by the infamous bridge over the River Kwai, built during the Second World War by Asian forced labour and Allied POW’s. It’s easy to walk along but the majority of tourists don’t walk the whole way down the bridge or take the steps down to the Chinese temple, Guan Im Sutham Temple which is worth a visit. There are several stalls in the square by the entrance to the bridge, all selling trinkets or Tshirts for the tourists. The Floating Restaurant by there offers a wide choice of meals and is good value.

Wat Guan Im Sutham Temple.

If you are wondering …we are already booked to go back to Oriental Kwai, we can’t keep away!

Visiting Chang Mai …and then onto ‘our’ elephants.

It’s a long time since we visited Chang Mai so we were looking forward to going back there again, The flight from Bangkok is just over an hour which was quite long enough having sat for eleven hours on the first plane. The airport in Chiang Mai is in the middle of the city so it didn’t take long for our taxi driver to drop us off at The Twenty Lodge, a small guest house, along a quiet back street just off one of the main roads. After a couple of hours sleep we had a wander round to get the lay of the land. Walking just a short way we passed several temples which as there are hundreds within the ancient walls of the city, wasn’t surprising. We decided however that sightseeing would have to wait as we were quite content to slowly acclimatise to the heat in an attempt to keep awake.

The delightful boutique hotel ‘The Twenty Lodge.’

John had researched and found what appeared to be a good place to eat on our first evening. The description of the restaurant was spot-on. The owner greeted us and after being served with a welcome glass of cool Chang beer we were shown to our table in the delightful outside garden. It was an excellent outdoor space to sit in this bustling city and the food was excellent too. Before we’d even finished our meal we’d decided to go back to ‘Link Cuisine’ a second night …which we did.

Looking at the website for The Twenty Lodge Hotel there’s one big omission …it doesn’t say what a fabulous choice there is in the buffet-style breakfast. I’m not sure what some of the dishes were but I tried most of them during the four days we were there. I gave the green curry a miss although I’m sure it was delicious but even for a curry lover like me, it was just a tad too early. The croissant and home-made jams were instant hits, also the variety of fresh fruit on offer The staff there were so helpful particulary the people on reception. Having caught up on sleep and eaten a huge breakfast we were ready to explore this ancient city.

The Buddhist temple of Wat Phra Singh was just around the corner from where we were staying. It’s one of the most revered temples in the city and houses a stunning 15th century statue of Buddha made of copper and gold. There is a lot to like about Buddhist temples. The atmosphere is very relaxed and it’s only one or two that charge an entrance fee to tourists and even then it’s only a few Baht. I always have a scarf with me as shoulders should be covered and flip flops are a good idea as they can be slipped off easily before going inside a temple. Very short, shorts are also frowned on.

15th century Buddha resplendent in copper and gold.
The beautiful gardens at Wat Pra Singh.

Moving on further down the road and already feeling the heat, quite literally, we arrived at another must-see Temple, Wat Chedi Luang.

Wat Chedi Luang is an enormous ‘Chedi’ like a stoopa, 282 feet high and 144 feet wide. The structure was damaged by an earthquake in 1545 and as it’s not structually sound it’s not possible to go inside. Having said that, it is very impressive. The stone elephants remaining on the other side of the building were a nice surprise. We thought how impressive it would have been if all the elephant scuptures had survived the earthquake. Imagine on each side the elephants looking down on you! As you can see, there are still some impressive features remaining of this ancient temple, especially the Nagas defending what would have been the main entrance. The painted warriors are probably 20th century.

Wat Chedi Luang

There is a lot to see in the grounds including these two big ‘gongs’. The wooden ‘striker’ is as heavy as it looks but keeping with Buddhist tradition we hit the gong three times.

Hitting the right note.

After sitting in the shade for a while we carried on exploring. We stopped for lunch just by the city wall before walking through into the ‘newer’ part of Chiang Mai. By the wall were quite a few of what appeared to be mostly Japanese tourists having their picture taken with hordes of pigeons flying around them. There’s certainly no shortage of these birds roosting in and on the walls but why people want to annoy them so they flap around in their pictures, I don’t know. Thankfully when you looked the other way you could enjoy the picturesque moat which runs all around the city.

There’s always something to see as you wander around Chiang Mai.
Interesting statue spotted in a temple garden.

I haven’t mentioned the variety of shops in the city as well as there is lots of choice when it comes to places to eat. This is authentic Thai food so it’s hard to make a bad choice as there’s loads of places to eat. Chiang Mai is also known for its local handicrafts and although there’s plenty of ‘tacky’ things on sale I did find a wonderful shop full of good-quality handicrafts, some locally made, and spent time and money in there although the prices were reasonable. We did walk around a couple more Wats before feeling ‘templed-out’ and going back to our hotel to relax by the pool.

The next day we were picked up from The Twenty Lodge by a minibus from Asia Scenic, a Thai Cooking School. There are a number of these schools but this one was recommended by the hotel. We picked up several other people on the way to downtown Chiang Mai where we met the rest of our group who like us had chosen to do a half day at their organic farm. They were a lovely, lively group, all ready to learn more about the real Thai cuisine and cook it too. After intros and instruction from our guide we walked to the market where she explained about the herbs, vegetables and spices we were going to cook with and showed us examples displayed on a variety of the stalls.

The fascinating market in Chiang Mai followed by our tour of the organic garden.

This company offers a variety of classes, whole or half day, in the town or on the farm. That’s the class we chose as it was a chance to get out of the city and see an organic Thai farm and learn more about the herbs and vegetables they grow there. After touring around the market we were taken by mini bus to the farm where we would be cooking in the open-air kitchen. There were twelve of us in the group; a mix of nationalities and ages. The youngest in our group was five, we were the oldest …so there was a good mix of ages, all full of enthusiasm and ready to cook. Walking around the gardens was very interesting and we learnt a lot about the plants etc. grown there. As for cooking the dishes we had each chosen, well that was great fun especially using the unfamiliar turbo gas. Before getting onto the mini bus to head back to the city we were given a recipe book so we could (in theory) produce the same dishes at home.

The organic kitchen garden and the open air kitchen.

That evening, which was a Sunday, we walked to the (almost) one kilometer long Rachadamnoen Road where the famous Sunday Night Market is set up. The market starts at 4.00pm until midnight and hundreds incuding locals and of course us tourists are drawn to it. The place was packed! Squeezing between all the stalls became a challenge so you just have to push your way through. I didn’t spot too many things to buy but it wasn’t for the variety of things on sale, I just felt it was too much of a hassle to stop at the stalls. It was less crowded when we walked back up the road so I did by a couple of things before diving into one of the cafes along the street. That was the best bit; sitting there drinking a beer, eating a curry and just watching the people walk by.

It’s Monday morning, our fifth day in Thailand and we’re picking up a hire car from the airport and then heading off to spend a few hours with elephants. Just typing that reminds me of the wonderful time we spent at the Thai Elephant Conservation Centre Tecc at Hang Chat, Lampang. We were last there in 2006 and now we were back again to see ‘our’ elephants. More about that in my next Blog.

A perfect sight.