It’s quite a heading for a Blog but it describes what we got up to after leaving our friends who live on the Mornington Peninsular.
There’s a very useful ferry going across the bay from Sorrento to Queenscliff, Searoad ferries which saves quite a lot of time if you’re heading for The Great Ocean Road. The trip across takes about forty minutes and if you’re lucky as we were you might even see some dolphins.
The views along Great Ocean Road are spectacular. The southern ocean can be very wild and it certainly wasn’t calm when we were there. Our first stop for the night was a motel right on the coastal road but before that we had a date with a few koalas …
Kennett River has a large koala population along with King parrots and kookaburras. We didn’t have time to walk up to the Grey River reserve which we were told is a great place to picnic, my sights or that of my camera was focussed on koalas. We weren’t alone at Kennett River of course in fact there were lots of people all eager to see koalas. Suddenly the shout went up as someone spotted one. You couldn’t say this iconic animal posed for the crowd below in fact he seemed rather disdainful of us and very sleepy. I couldn’t see there was much action and anyway there were too many blinking photographers so I wandered off to another lot of eucalyptus trees to see if I could spot a little more excitement.
Honestly I nearly dropped my camera! There he or she was …a splendid koala and I had this magnificent creature all to myself. Did I keep quiet? You bet I did. Not only was he happy to pose for me (I’m saying he was a ‘he’), but he decided to show off his acrobatic skills by leaping around. You can probably see that I did quite well to capture his antics. I might have got a few more shots but all too soon I was surrounded by keen photographers shrieking and whooping with delight …time to leave them to it. What a shame that my koala decided to give them the ‘bum’s rush’ and scamper off!
Seeing koalas and having King parrots land on your head was quite enough excitement for one day. It had been a fairly long drive to Apollo Bay as we’d stopped several times to look at the view and so we were tired when we arrived at our motel.
Our motel room at Seafarer’s Getaway had a superb view of the beach and the ocean but unfortunately the sea was too rough to have a swim. We missed the best of the sunset that evening as we’d gone into the town to have a meal but I managed to get this picture when we got back.
Day two on The Great Ocean Road and our first stop, just fifteen miles away from Apollo Bay was at Mait’s Rest Rainforest. Surprisingly there was hardly anyone else around as we walked along the board walk. Mait’s Rest doesn’t feature much as one of the attractions along Great Coast Road which in a way is a pity however we loved the solitude. If you’re anywhere near do go, it’s fabulous. Giant myrtle beeches tower through the ever-constant mist which hangs over the rainforest and the array of ferns is wonderful. Such an atmospheric place which I’ve tried to capture in these pictures.
This had been a magical morning but now it was time to get back to the car, put the heater on to warm up and head towards the Twelve Apostles. These great stacks rise up from the Southern ocean so what with the promise of a dramatic skyline, stunning effects on the rocks at sunset I knew we were in for a treat. Here’s just one picture for starters, more to follow in my next Blog.
It was hard to drag ourselves away from our little Miner’s Cottage in Walhalla but today we were heading to Hastings on the Mornington Peninsular to visit friends. We’d been promising to visit them for as long as I can remember, they probably thought we’d never make it … just goes to show!
We’d been guests at their wedding forty years ago and so how could we not come over to Oz to celebrate their Ruby wedding anniversary? It was also my friend’s husband’s birthday so there were two things to celebrate.
Considering neither of them drink, well my friend a little but compared to our consumption it’s a drop in the old wine glass, it was kind of them to take us to a vineyard after lunch. It was a good choice, Stumpy Gully wine is very quaffable and of course I ended up buying a bottle …for later. The setting there is delightful, no wonder the restaurant has a great reputation along with their wines and a very romantic place to celebrate a wedding too I would imagine.
The next day we caught the train into Melbourne arriving at the bustling Flinders Street Station. We walked around a little to get our bearings and then headed to one of the aboriginal art galleries, Koorie Heritage Trust in Federation Square.
These designs are amazing and I loved the display of the rolled towers in one of the galleries at the museum. After a refreshing cup of tea for me and coffee for my man we were off to see art of a different kind.
Hosier Lane in Melbourne is a lane full of urban street art, graffiti if you like. Even the wheelie bins are painted! One thing the guide book doesn’t tell you about is the smell, presumably at night this area is a refuge for rough sleepers.
After the mind-blowing effect of so much grafitti we headed back to Federation Square to The Ian Potter Centre which has a fabulous collection of art and is part of the National Gallery of Victoria. You could spend a whole day in there and it’s free admission. Here’s my favourite painting, it’s a bit ‘off-kilter’ but that’s the photographer not the hanging!
We decided to do as much as possible before lunch (as you can probably tell!) so our next stop was St Paul’s Cathedral. As an ordination service was about to start we weren’t able to have a good look round. The architecture apparently is neo-Gothic, partly early English and partly decorated. It’s a fairly austere building designed by an English architect but he certainly didn’t (in my opinion) try to copy any of our classic Cathedrals.
Now it definitely was time for lunch so we walked across Princes Bridge and found an excellent cafe along the riverside just in time to escape a torrential downpour! Fortunately when we were ready to leave the weather had sorted itself out so we headed back to the centre by Flinder’s Station and caught one of the ionic free City Circle trams, route number 35. After our free tour we just had time to pop into the other part of the National Gallery of Victoria before heading for the train back to Hastings for a celebration meal cooked by our hosts. Loved the traditional Aussie pumpkin soup, delicious!
As much as we enjoyed our trip to Melbourne we’re not really city people. We enjoyed being on the coast blowing a few cobwebs away and our friends were great guides and know all the pretty harbours and walkways.
All too soon it was time to leave although it wasn’t a final farewell as we were coming back to Hastings after the next part of our trip. So it was goodbye to Mornington Peninsular as we headed off to The Great Ocean Drive. The most direct route was by ferry first. Just forty minutes across what is known as Victory Bight from Sorrento to Queenscliff avoiding a long drive via Melbourne, and we saw dolphins, a real treat. More about the drive and our stay in The Grampians in the next blog.
Everything we’d read about the drive south from Sydney along the coastal route was true. The scenery is breathtaking! Although we’d enjoyed our stay in Sydney it was good to escape from the city. If only our roads at home were as quiet as this. Plenty of places to pull in off The Princes Highway and admire the view although we knew we had a fair few miles to cover and a couple of places to visit en route.
Illawarra Fly is famous for its treetop walk and zipline adventure through the tree tops. Maybe it was because the views weren’t great as it was quite misty that we were underwhelmed by our visit there. Perhaps if we’d done the zipline we would have been more impressed? So it was on to the next tourist spot, Fitzroy Falls.
Fitzroy Falls is actually the name of the village which was founded in the early 19th century. Today according to Wikipedia 218 people live there. You’ll see from the plaque below that the good old Europeans began moving the indigenous Aboriginal people out from the area in 1816. This was a very spiritual place for the Aborigines, a fact lost to those early settlers.
We enjoyed our walk through the forest and especially the views which were spectacular including the falls where the water plunges down over 80 metres. The Visitor Centre acknowledges the Aboriginal history of the region and sells locally made souvenirs. We both felt that this tourist attraction was well worth the visit.
After a short drive we arrived at Vincentia, Jervis Bay for our overnight stay. After booking into our hotel for the night, Dolphin Shores we drove into town for a beer. Fabulous evening with a golden light lighting up the Bay; it was so good sitting out on the pub veranda, that I had a second pint.
Very excited about our trip today. You just have to see kangaroos if you’re visiting Australia and today was going to be the day! We were heading for Pebbly Beach. If you take a look at their website you’ll see there’s kangaroos everywhere on the beach.
First of all we drove down through this wonderful, primeval forest which is part of Murramarang National Park. Definitely something out of Jurassic Park, it even smelt ‘earthy’. Arriving at the car park we started “roo” spotting. Was that a kangaroo over there? Maybe not. The weather was fantastic as we walked to the beach. Definitely very scenic with pure white sand and secluded but where were the residents? In fairness I don’t suppose they’re on the beach all the time and it was very hot but we’d come a long way …
We sat for quite a while soaking up the sun until we felt we’d had enough. We walked slowly back to the car feeling a bit miffed but just before we got there, on the grass by the bushes were a group of kangaroos. Turned out it was our lucky day in more ways than one as we hadn’t realised you had to pay for parking until we spotted the machine. No traffic violation …this time …but that’s a story for another Blog.
We stayed at a place called Eden that night. Not a lot happening there on a Monday evening. We drove round looking for somewhere to have dinner without success and arrived back at our hotel. Apparently there are around 3000 or so people who live in this coastal town, they certainly don’t go far on a Monday night!
Thankfully the next place we stayed in had a lot more life even though it’s a small village. Metung is very pretty and sits by the shores of Gippsland Lakes. I loved our wooden house at McMillans of Metung and had an enjoyable swim in the pool there. We’d definitely recommend this resort and the friendly people who own it. Another place we loved was the flower and tea shop where we had the biggest, squidgiest chocolate cake ever, it was divine! Thanks you Effloresce Flowers and Cafe, the walk into town along the boardwalk by the lake in the late afternoon sun was lovely and to discover they were still open was an added bonus.
Next morning we headed off to the wonderfully sounding name, Walhalla, which was an old mining town established in 1862. In its day the Gold Mine was one of the richest in Australia and the town was booming. Not like that today but it’s history is fascinating and of course it now relies on the tourists although at the time our visit it was fairly quiet. The town nestles in a deep mountain valley, it even snows there in winter! There’s a number of quaint shops all reflecting a time long gone. Our first stop was to the Grey Horse Cafe for a sandwich and a warming cup of tea. We sat outside by the War Memorial admiring the roses and feeling quite chilly.
Just up the road outside the General Stores was a chap feeding the King parts and Crimson Rosella, both beautiful birds, which you can see. He told us that they rely on him …I bet they do!
I loved the Victorian-style band stand dominating the village and made a note to walk up to to it on our way back from visiting the Gold Mine.
After the tour we had just enough time to walk back through the village to the railway station to catch the Walhalla Goldfields Railway. This is a narrow gauge railway, run by volunteers. It’s a great journey (far too wobbly to take any pictures) which runs through Stringers Creek Gorge, going over six large trestle bridges. Then it passes through the delightfully named ‘Happy Creek’ before arriving at Thomson station. The star of the show for us was Gladys, the volunteer who seemed to be very much in charge even down to waving the train off as we left on the return journey.
At this point we still hadn’t gone to where we were staying the night although we’d seen the cottage as its perched on top of a steep bank overlooking the railway. Stringer’s Cottage is a one-bedroom miner’s cottage tucked away and shaded by a massive mountain ash and black wood trees. It’s compact, eco friendly, solar powered and is bursting with character, we loved it there.
I’m sure by now you’re thinking that we couldn’t cram anymore into this day but we did. I have a thing about churchyards …anywhere, anytime. I was not going to miss a visit to Walhalla Cemetery which I knew would tell the harsh reality of life here faced by the miners and their families. It’s an unusual cemetery perched high above the town with apparently 1100 graves although only 200 can now be located which seems very sad. It’s quite tricky to get around, climbing up along the terraces and stone walls but we made it to the top and it was well worth it.
By the time we got back to Stringers Cottage we only had a short time to sort ourselves out ready for our meal at the only pub in town. In fact the only place in town you can eat in the evening and you have to make sure you’ve ordered by 7.00pm. The Walhalla Lodge Hotel, better known as The Wally Pub was just what we wanted. An excellent pint of beer and a huge plate of good, hearty food. Just what we needed!
By 9.30 we were heading back to our little cottage in the woods. It was really quiet. No cars, people or any activity apart from a few Crimson Rosellas in the trees. No surprise that we slept very well that night in our miners cottage.
It was great to arrive in Sydney in the early morning and know we could crash for a few hours in our airbnb apartment. Once again my man had chosen well. The apartment was in a quiet part of the city, Pott’s Point and had great views of the bay and over to Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House. I can’t say we did too much that day, we were still re-charging our batteries.
This was day 2 and time to explore! We walked from Pott’s Point enjoying the fresh air and feeling excited to be in Sydney. We walked along the path by Woolloomooloo Bay (great name) up to the viewpoint at Mrs Macquarie’s Chair. These Ozzies know how to name places! By then there were quite a few tourists around as it’s a popular spot to take pictures. The sky looked quite threatening but for me that kind of backdrop makes for good pictures.
We carried on through the Royal Botanic Garden which is beautiful and huge …30 hectares if you can imagine that. You can easily spend a day wandering around there but we were on a mission to do as many sights as possible!
We came out of the garden and joined the main path up to the Opera House. You kind-of pinch yourself – it’s so iconic. You’ve seen it in pictures etc and suddenly there it is in front of you. The design is incredible and even more so when you see it from the bay, it really does look like a ship on water!
We went inside but decided not to pay for a guided tour and instead treated ourselves to a glass of fizz and a sandwich on the terrace. So glad we didn’t have a meal there as the seagulls are SO agressive and dive-bomb anyone eating food. The food on the plates is covered with a metal lid but you have to take it off to get at your food. Before the unsuspecting diners know what’s happening the seagulls are swooping down and grabbing it! To us it looked like a scene from ‘The Birds.’
Having enjoyed the free entertainment and managing to eat our sandwich we walked around as much of the outside of the building as you can and went to the loo inside without having to pay admission! Refreshed and ready to go again we took the path around Circular Quay walking towards an area of the city known as The Rocks.
The Rocks is definitely our favourite area of Sydney. It’s got character, open-air markets, lots of pubs and restaurants and a great atmosphere. The streets were teeming with people but I managed to spot a French bakery shop as we walked along towards the bridge; that’ll do I thought for after we’ve climbed up the bridge. I should say that we did the Pylon Lookout and not the walk across the whole span of the bridge. I’m sure that’s great but it’s not cheap and would have taken a huge chunk of time out of our day. To go up the 200 stairs to the south-east pylon lookout is only $10 dollars (concession rate) and you still get a great view. The exhibitions are interesting too with some fabulous pictures showing the men constructing the bridge. They had some guts to do that and amazingly only sixteen men died and only two actually fell to their deaths from the bridge.
I’ve found the name of the French cake shop …very happy to give ‘La Renaissance’ a mention, the cakes were delicious. Suitably refreshed, we walked all the way back to our apartment. We’d certainly discovered a good part of Sydney and covered a few miles that day.
Day 3 and we had a wander around the city centre. Pretty much like any other but I did like this arcade, The Strand Arcade.
Gosh it was chilly walking round and there was us thinking Sydney would be steaming! Fortunately we’d planned to go on the ferry across to Manly and over there, the sun was shining. It feels like you’re going across to an island but it’s boringly described by Wikipedia as a beach-side suburb of northern Sydney.
We weren’t too impressed walking down to the seafront. Lot of shops that you find anywhere at seaside places …reminded us of Mablethorpe High Street without the motorised wheelchairs! Fortunately once we’d got away from that area and started walking the coastal path things looked up, so much so I almost missed seeing this water dragon. There were signs for them but I didn’t expect to spot one. They are quite impressive especially the way they blend in with the rocks. We didn’t get too close, (I used my long lens), they have serious claws and bite!
After a fantastic fish lunch at a seafood cafe washed down with an excellent glass of Aussie wine we decided to do some exploring. It was funny to see this sign in the middle of a suburban area and yes, once we were back on the wooded trail we actually saw a bandicoot. Only for a second though, nervous critters clearly.
By the time we got back to the ferry we’d probably walked six or seven miles. Ten out of ten for wildlife, the same for the beaches we came across and the terrain inland. Heavens knows how we came to stumble across a parade ground and barracks with no-one around or walk through a suburb of Manly but these things happen sometimes on our walks. We couldn’t help noticing on our way back to Sydney that the sky was overcast and the temperature when we got off the ferry was ten degrees colder than in Manly! Apparently it had been like that all afternoon in the city.
That night I took a final picture looking across from our apartment to the Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge. It looked great with all the lights twinkling. Tomorrow we would be heading south in a hire car down Australia’s Pacific Coast.
We were off to Australia, our first trip to the Antipodes. We could have flown straight to Sydney but it was just too tempting to stop-over in Singapore after all, we’d arrive in Oz more alert without jet lag …wouldn’t we?
It was about ten years since we’d been in Singapore. Even at 6am and you’ve guessed it, feeling pretty zonked as we were driven from the airport, the skyline of the city looked impressive. Was it our imagination or did it seem like skyscraper city, with the ocassional area of green grass? How much would we recognise from the last time we were here we wondered, a lot can change in ten years.
We knew we wouldn’t be able to get into our room until early afternoon so after dumping our cases at our hotel, The Park Regis, we made our way into town, dragging our feet with tiredness. It was a grey old day which didn’t help to lift our spirits although it’s an interesting walk around the Boat Quay. Afterwards we looked around the very impressive National Gallery which is free to go in and huge. After a cheap and delicious Chinese lunch in one of the back streets we were able to get into our room and catch up on some sleep.
A few hours later and we were ready to hit the city. We headed off to Gardens by the Bay which is a huge, futuristic park in the bay area. It’s rated one of the top three things to do in Singapore and you can see why. Great place and it’s free!
So much to see in the park and the Light and Sound show which takes place every evening at 7.45 and 8.45 is spectacular. How they’ve lit up the trees is something else – an amazing sight. Huge crowds started to gather to enjoy this free show; you have find to a space to sit wherever you can. If you want you can pay to watch it from the Skyway but we didn’t see the point. We did agree though that when we come back to the city in a couple of week’s time we’ll go up to the top of the Marina Bay Sands hotel and watch the display from there.
Our flight the next day wasn’t until early evening so we spent the day walking around the city, our first stop was the Asian Civilisations Museum. We love anything to do with Asian artefacts and culture. The gallery is on three levels and showcases not just Asian art and culture but also sculptures and paintings of Christian and Islamic art. As it turned out we could have spent hours in there, so much to see, it was excellent. I took a few pictures but the light in several of the galleries was very low. Their website has some good pictures on there.
Inevitably when you’re staying in Singapore the place to go and explore and enjoy a good value meal is Chinatown. Apart from the appalling smell as you pass the stalls selling durian fruit, the area is fun, colourful and bursting with life. Night time is best to experience the buzz, the smell of street food and enjoy the entertainment. We ate there both nights
On our second night before going for a meal we visited the Hindu temple, Sri Mariamann which is just around the corner from Chinatown. I don’t know why but invariably on holiday I come across a wedding and this holiday was no exception. We didn’t expect the temple to be full of people carrying food, a procession and loud music. We weren’t sure what was going on but it turned out to be the first of several ceremonies celebrating a wedding. Don’t know whether the bride and groom were there but there was plenty going on even if they weren’t! We couldn’t stay too long as we wanted to have a meal before heading off to the airport. Only wish my pictures conveyed the huge amount of activity going on at this temple and the deafening noise!
After another excellent meal in Chinatown washed down by a couple of bottles of Tiger beer we picked up our bags from the hotel and headed for the airport for our next part of the trip. Australia here we come!
February is not my favourite time of the year so I love to break it up with a couple of days away. Having said that, unlike last year, this February has been pretty good. There were days here in The Cotswolds when the temperature reached 19 degrees and even warmer in some parts of the UK.
We had decided to go to Winchester for our break as it’s an interesting city and it was quite a few years since we’d been there. My man had done his usual research and booked a ‘Fullers’ pub right in the heart of the city near to the Cathedral. The Wykeham Arms was a great choice; a pub full of character, good beer and our spacious room was excellent. Good rates too.
After checking in, our first stop was to walk up to the small church of St Swithun’s. This church is tiny and sits above the Kingsgate arch just outside the cathedral grounds. You could easily miss it as the only access is by a narrow staircase at the side. The church dates back to the 13th century and has whitewashed walls and a timber roof. Only a very few of these ‘gateway’ churches’ remain. It’s definitely worth a visit.
Winchester Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the country and is one of my favourites. It’s architecture is stunning especially the enormous Gothic nave and atmospheric crypt with its statue by Anthony Gormley entitled Sound II. There’s a modest admission charge and nothing extra to take photographs. It’s a brilliant place in which to just ‘snap away’! Here below is a selection.
After spending a very pleasant hour or so we had lunch in the Cathedral Refectory. A good range of food but quite a wait for two toasted sandwiches!
Just by the visitors’ centre is a statue (technically a bust) of the famous diver, William Walker. He is credited with saving the Cathedral from sinking by underpinning the foundations. It’s a fascinating story which is told in panels in the cathedral complete with pictures. From 1906-1911 he dived down into the waters to a depth of up to six meters in complete darkness to excavate the mud and sludge so that afterwards the area could be filled in with concrete. His heavy diving suit was made of metal and was too cumbersome to take off so when he came up to eat his sandwiches at lunchtime he just removed his helmet. It enabled him to eat and enjoy his pipe afterwards which he was convinced would protect him from any germs in the water. Sadly William died in the 1918 Spanish flu pandemic.
After lunch we walked along the river to the Hospital of St Cross. Founded in the 1130’s this Hospital is one of the oldest Almshouses in England. It’s purpose was to provide help for gentry who had fallen on hard times. Today the Almshouses are home to 25 Brothers who to this day still wear burgundy gowns for their daily Matins.
It’s an impressive place with a large church, Brethens’ Hall, Kitchens and the interesting and peaceful Master’s Garden. There were only a few other visitors which meant that I had a ‘clear run’ taking pictures.
It’s only a short walk from there back to the city centre but we felt we deserved a pint of ‘London Pride’ when we got back to the pub. If only we had beer like that in our local …
We rounded off our day with a Thai meal which wasn’t memorable but walking through Cathedral close was. The evening light on the Cathedral was fantastic. A friend of ours described it as a ‘Golden House’ and he was right. A perfect end to our stay in this lovely city.
Montreuil was a source of inspiration for Victor Hugo who wrote the novel ‘Les Miserables’. It’s recently been televised by the BBC and so several of our friends were asking whether this was the reason we’d chosen to stay there … it wasn’t. We thought that instead of going straight home after our mammoth shop it would be a nice idea to stay somewhere not too far away from Calais. Montreuil is only an hour down the motorway and it turned out to be a very good choice.
On the way there we came off the motorway at Le Touquet as I wanted to take a picture of the sun setting over the sea. I’m glad we did because as you can see from the shot above, it was a beautiful sight.
Having arrived at our hotel we got a bit of a shock as we tried the door to the old building which was locked and then realised the place was empty apart from a cement mixer! Major refurbishments are going on so we were relieved when a workman directed us next door to the open part of the hotel. We’d definitely recommend Les Hauts de Montreuil. We were given a nice warm welcome, the bedroom was huge and the meal in the evening was excellent and if that wasn’t enough the choice at breakfast was amazing – everything you could imagine include home-made creme- caramel!
It was late afternoon when we arrived so we just had time before it got dark to wander up to the ramparts. Apparently there’s 3km of them so Montreuil was pretty much a fortress and still is. The street, Clape-en-Bas with it’s old houses built of mud is very picturesque but as the light wasn’t good I waited until the next day to photograph it.
The following day was bitterly cold and very grey with a promise of snow later. Nevertheless we had a good walk round the town. I took a few pictures of Rue Clape-en-Bas and then we walked up to ‘The Citadel’ which was built on the site of a former royal castle. Just shows how important a place Montreuil was. Every summer the town puts on a ‘Son et lumiere’ show in the Citadel celebrating Victor Hugo’s ‘Les Miserables’
After walking round a section of the ramparts we ended our walk round by popping into the main church. I thought it was a rather austere building on the outside although the carvings around the door are interesting. The church dominates one of the town’s large squares (lots of free parking!) and dates back to the 13th century when it was a monastery. The fan-vaulted ceiling is impressive as is the altar, the stained glass windows and the medieval tombs. Definitely worth a visit.
This really had been a short trip to France but we’d packed quite a bit in and had a full boot of wine to show for it and a few other goodies too …and we beat the snow that fell on Montreuil that evening.