Holiday photography – Travels with the Booths.blog

Enjoying a week in Provence

**View of St Didier with Mont Ventoux in the background.**

Staying near St Didier – at 305 Chemin des Tourrasses

Travelling to Provence:– Paris to Avignon by the TGV takes around two hours forty minutes. We were greeted by a beautiful blue sky and a temperature of 30 degrees as we piled off the train. It wasn’t long before we’d picked up the hire car and were heading towards the gîte which was just outside the village of St Didier in the Vaucluse Department.

The Gîte: – Gilles and his wife, Celine, made us feel very welcome, explained a few things about the gîte and then left us to sort ourselves out. They didn’t have to tell us much about the area or St. Didier as we’ve been to Provence many times and we also knew the village. We were so impressed with the view of Mont Ventoux from the gîte also pleased with the quiet location and the delightful swimming pool. We knew we had chosen a good spot for our week in Provence.

**The location of our gîte … with a fantastic view of Mont Ventoux and a superb pool.**

Mont Ventoux is the only mountain in Provence and dominates the Vaucluse landscape from miles around. It has gentle slopes, a ‘bald’ summit revealing white rock and is a UNESCO Biosphere reserve due to its diverse flora & fauna. It’s also famous from the Tour de France with three classic ascents and attracts ameteur cyclists, hikers and nature lovers alike. We drove up there several years ago and obviously chose the wrong day. The mist was very thick at the summit so the breathtaking, panoramic views were lost on us and the wind was so strong that we didn’t linger too long outside the car. It wasn’t a day for spotting chamois, stags, roe deer, wild boars or anything else. We must try again.

Our week.

A Provençal village: – As I’ve already mentioned, we know the area well however there are places we always want to go back to as we can never get enough of the villages in Provence. One such village is Venasque, famous for its cherries. They hold a cherry fesival in June where not only do many of the 110 growers sell mountains of cherries from their stall, they also dress in regional costume and on a certain day the whole town turns out to celebrate and venerate the humble cherry. We went once and because this is a famous festival and people come from miles around we had to park at the bottom of the cliff and walk up. The website describes Venasque as a medieval town, perched on a steep cliff …a very accurate description.

The village of Venasque.

At other times Venasque is a quiet place to visit. You walk through the arch of the ramparts with its Roman towers and walk over to the Esplanade where there’s a fabulous view. From there we walk along the narrow paths to the Romanesque church of Notre Dame which (to me) has a special atmosphere and in there is one of my favourite statues. There’s also a Baptistery with the entrance around the back of the church which is apparently one of the oldest religious sites in France. The villagers obviously take pride in their village; there are flowers everywhere and interesting statues to spot as you walk along and in the little courtyard gardens too. We used to sit by the fountain and have a drink but this time we were told we would have to order a meal. We were a bit surprised as there was hardly anyone around however we walked across the road to Le Petit Chose and enjoyed a glass of wine and the view from the terrace there.

Séguret is another village which we often visit. It’s ranked as one of the ‘Most Beautiful Villages in France’ although I’m sure there are many on that list. Like Venasque it’s generally very quiet later in the year although in the ‘High Season’ it does get crowded. There are no cars driving through the narrow, cobbled streets of this medieval village which definitely adds to its charm. There are several artist’s workshops and galleries as well as artisan jeweller’s shops to wander into and a couple of tourist shops but that’s it, however the Séguret wine cellar is worth a visit. We parked at the bottom of the village where there was plenty of spaces and walked up through the Reynier Gate and along the Rue des Poternes lined with well-maintained medieval Provencal houses. We stopped a couple of times, firstly to look around a gallery where a sculptor was working on one of her pieces and then to go inside a jewellery shop. I was tempted to buy one of the beautiful pieces but the prices were a little too high for my pocket. We walked up and along to the path that takes you up to the ruined castle but one look at the state of the path was enough for us to to give the castle ruins a miss. We did enjoy the panoramic view though from the top road.

We were very happy with the location of our gîte which was only a kilometre outside the village of St Didier. There is a superb avenue in the town lined with ancient plane trees. Here are lots of restaurants, a well-supported local bar which serves good food too; a couple of grocery shops and at one end of the street there is a splendid stone archway with a clock tower you can see from miles around. Through the arch is the Chateau de Thézan which is now open again to the public. Unfortunately we missed the weekly market as we had to leave that morning but by all accounts the town is buzzing then.

Another attraction which draws people to St Didier is the artisan shop, Silvain This is a company famous for the manufacture of nougat. If you are a lover of nougat, this is the place to be. The shop has an excellent display of all their products and this is a wide range of delightful things to tempt you. This in our opinion and that of many others is the best home-made nougat produced anywhere. We haven’t done the workshop visit but that is also highly rcommmended. You are guaranteed to walk out the shop having bought more than you intended!

**The archway through to the Château de Thézon**

The town of Carpentras:

When we were in Provence a couple of years ago we tried to book a visit to the synagogue in Carpentras but the guided tour was fully booked. This year we phoned and managed to get on the tour …more about that shortly.

Carpentras is famous for its black truffle market which is held between mid November – mid February. Restauranteurs, traders and brokers come to buy the famous ‘black diamond’, the market is recognised as the place in Europe as it sets the market price for this famous black truffle. The town is also famous for its strawberries when in May the Strawberry Festival takes place. And the third claim to fame is a factory which produces Berlingots de Carpentras, nougats, Provencal biscuits, lollipops and pralines. I have to confess we didn’t buy any truffles, strawberries or visit the Confierie du Mont Ventoux, but there’s always another year …

The Synagogue of Carpentras is the oldest synagogue still in operation in France. A large Jewish community had settled in the town at that time and was placed under the security of the Pope following the persecutions carried out by the ‘Kingdom’ of France against the Israelite people. Restored in the eighteenth century, the synagogue was updated with baroque elements, including a monumental stairway that contrasts with its modest façade. Notable features include the ritual baths (mikveh), two bakeries dating back to its origins, and a dedicated room for Jerusalem within the prayer space. These elements make the synagogue a profound reflection of the Jewish community’s enduring cultural and spiritual heritage.

I can’t remember what we paid for the tour but it wasn’t much. It would have been much more interesting for us if there was some English thrown in as we walked around but unfortunately although the guide spoke good English, because everyone else in the group was French apart from two people and us, she told the history of the synagogue almsot entirely in French. We found it very challenging and after the first hour we did switch off. I asked at the end if they had a leaflet in English that we could take away, but they didn’t.

I’m glad we went as it is an interesting building and we did pick up some history. With hindsight maybe we should have asked the guide to explain a few things in English but we didn’t.

The town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue:

Towards the end of our holiday we arranged to meet a friend in the nearby town of L’Isle sur la Sorgue. The town is famous for the many canals that weave through the centre, some with waterwheels and little bridges going across. The town is known as ‘Little Venice’ and you can see why. The clear waters of the Sorgue with the ferns gently swaying with the current is wonderful to watch and memerising when you look down from one of the many bridges. We always walk up to the end of the main street to see how much water is flowing into ‘Le Basin’. Along that street are many cafes with tables set out along the frontage and alongside the river. It’s a popular tourist area and is always busy. If you visit the town on a Sunday however it is packed with people who have come, not just to go to the market but also to browse the many stalls selling bric-a-brac. In the height of the summer it’s difficult to park and hard to see anything at all for the crowds. There may be bargains to be had in this ‘flea market’ but for anyone looking for an antique you do have lots of choice as there are nearly 300 antique dealers in the town!

**One of the working waterwheels over the river in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.**

Our friend’s choice of ice cream parlour was spot-on. The ice creams at Ravi are delicious. We sat outside along the terrace by the river and had a great catch-up. As we were leaving she told us about an old church and another building open in the town as part of the Heritage Week and suggested we take the opportunity to visit them. She remembered holding her 18th birthday in the church, so has fond memories of it (must have been quite some location for a special birthday as it had quite a Gothic feel about it!). The second building was La Tour d’Argent which dates back to the 12th century where we could climb to the top and get a good view of the main square in the town.

**View from the top of the church. Picture on the r.h.s. is of the calm still waters that run through the town** **of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.**

The church is now de-commissioned and has a rather dodgy floor and was being used as an exhibition space for the week displaying ‘wacky’ artwork and sculptures. La Tour d’Argent also had some unusual creative artwork and had just for this week opened the stairs to the roof. The uneven stone steps spiralling up to the top were a little tricky to negotiate but it was well worth it. It was a different way to see the impressive Collegiate Church of Notre-Dame-des-Anges. which is the main church in the town and quite some monument.

By the end of our holiday we had done a few walks in the area near to the gîte; we also explored the wonderful Provençal countryside in the car, visited towns and villages, drank lots of very reasonably priced wine and had some excellent meals. We made full use of the pool at the gîte and were very pleased with everything there including the quiet location. A week in Provence isn’t long enough to explore this area unless you have been lots of times before. We will be going back before long as it is one of our favourite places and it doesn’t matter how many times we go ,there’s always lots to do and see and soak up that unique Provençal ‘feel’. I hope this Blog has given you a flavour of the area and perhaps it’s tempted you to visit and explore for yourself?

Top Attractions on Portugal’s Silver Coast: Our Journey

A week in Portugal's Silver Coast

We were sorry to say goodbye to Lisbon but after picking up a hire car we were keen to explore another area of Portugal – the ‘Silver Coast’, or Costa de Prata This runs along the central-western Portuguese coastline and is known for its beautiful beaches, historic towns and is generally less crowded than the Algarve. We had booked in at Casa Sobreiro, a holiday let just outside the village of Salir de Matos and a short drive from the coast. The owners made us feel very welcome and we were thrilled both with the accommodation and the quiet location.

‘**Casa Sobreiro’ also pictures taken on a walk in the neighbouring countryside.**

One of the attractions in the area is the medieval walled town of Óbidos. It’s very picturesque and therefore can get quite busy but it’s well worth a visit. We parked for free down at the bottom and walked into the village up through one of the Moorish gates. Bougainvilleas are in flower everywhere in summer and the views from the walls are breathtaking but unless you’re in to all the tourist shops, there’s not a lot to do. The colourful houses add to the charm of the place but it’s the medieval walls which encircle the village that are the most spectacular. The Moorish castle at the top is now a pousada (a chain of luxury, traditional hotels in Portugal), but all the walls are accessible.

After leaving Óbidos we escaped the dust and heat of the day and drove to the coastal village of Foz do Arelho There are actually two beaches created by a saltwater lagoon. We chose to go to the main beach where there are long stretches of white sand, the other is more for paddle-boarding or kite-surfing on a windy day. There are lots of cafes along the promenade all selling fresh seafood We chose one and had a beer and then checked out another which had a very good write-up so decided that was the place to go later in the week – Cabana do Pescador didn’t disappoint. Foz de Arelho is also famous as a great place to watch the sun slowly going down. All ways round, as a seaside resort it’s an idyllic summer destination.

**Foz de Arelho by day and in the evening.**

We do love visiting one or two historical monuments when we’re on holiday so we were keen to visit the 900 year old Monastery of Alobaća which has all of its original buildings preserved and is one of the finest examples of Cistercian architecture in Europe. Inside the medieval buildings is the Refectory, the Chapter Room and the magnificent cloister. The Nave is impressive too, in fact it’s all very impressive and great place to take photographs too.

It’s not unusual when we’re away to come across a wedding and sure enough waiting outside the church was a bridal group. What you can’t see in the picture is the crate of beer in a wheelbarrow with lots of ice just by the front steps ready for the lads to enjoy, presumbly after the Ceremony. All must have gone well becasue the wedding cars certainly woke up the town of Alcobaća as the wedding cars drove round and round the square beeping their horns.

**The Gothic church, adjoining the Monastery was built in the Middle Ages.**

After lunch in the town we headed for the Castle of Porto de Mós which has undergone several changes since it was bult in 1200. It was an interesting drive over there with some lovely views of the countryside. The castle really stands out even from a few miles away especially two of the towers which are topped with green ceramic cones. When you see them close to it’s a bit of a ‘marmite moment’ … you either like them or you don’t. Parking is free and the admission charge is just 92 cents (half price for people like us). The castle is now a cultural centre and hosts exhibitions and conferences and also hosts plays – a perfect backdrop for an historical enactment! It seemed to us that the castle wasn’t on the tourist route and we liked that about it.

If there’s one place to visit in this region it has to be Coimbra. If you click on this link to the website you’ll see there is a host of things to do in this World Heritage City …and now …confession time, we didn’t do it justice. We wandered around the city including part of the medieval old town, visited the Cathedral and had a splendid lunch but we didn’t go into the famous University. Tiredeness and the heat that day was just too much and we had 120km drive back to the Casa. I’m looking now at the information on this Seat of Learning which is one of the oldest in the world and regret that we weren’t up to visiting it. If we go back to that area we will definitely make it a priority. The Throne Room; the Chapel; the Bookstore for starters plus the many more interesting rooms and buildings of this University don’t deserve to be missed.

The start of our visit to the city

We parked for free in a large multi-storey car park this side of the Mondego river and walked across the bridge into the city. Loved these ‘musicians’. Very good sorveteria (ice cream shop) opposite.

Main picture – View from the bridge. Bottom right is the front of one of the University buildings and the other three pictures are of the old Cathedral.

**Main picture is of a window advertising Fado, a Portuguese music genre now only sung in Coimbra and Lisbon**. The top four **pictures** **show the quaintness of the city.**

As I mentioned before, the Casa where we were staying was only a short drive from the coast. Foz do Arelho was one of the towns but we also drove to two more. The first was São Martinho do Porto which was incredibly busy with a very noisy fun fair surrounded by pop-up food stalls so there was a strong smell of chips together with petrol fumes from cars navigating the narrow streets looking for a parking space. We parked up on the hill overlooking the bay and walked down. We weren’t very impressed with the place but we will never forget the glass of rosé we were served – it was the worst rosé wine ever! To be fair, the cafe manager did admit that it had gone off …(in the box!) and gave us a glass of white wine instead. So sorry, São Martinho do Porto – we weren’t impressed with the place, maybe on another day …Nazaré however was very different.

We parked in Sitio which is a district of Nazaré. This fishing village is perched on top of the craggy headland where you get a fabulous view of the bay and Norte Beach. We visited the impressive church of The Sanctuary of our Lady of Nazareth and the nearby chapel and then went by funicular down to the town. The funicular leaves every fifteen minutes and if you can get a clear view as it goes down, its worth it. Built in 1889 it was modernised in 2002 and is used by both tourists and locals. A return ticket is €4.00.

The view from Sitio.

It was a public holiday the day we went, so the seafront was very lively. Having just sat down with a cold beer in front of us we heard music getting gradually louder, sure enough it was a procession. Naturally I couldn’t resit taking a few pictures.

**Celebrating Corpus Christ – a national holiday in Portugal**.

Nazaré is known for its beautiful crescent-shaped beach; its cobbled streets and big waves. The bay was very calm when we were there but in the winter, if the conditions are right, waves occur which dramatically increase in height and grow to become some of the world’s largest ‘surfable’ waves. The biggest wave ever measured was 28 metres (93 feet). Surfers closely study the forecast and a hint that powerful waves are expected results in thousands flocking to the resort. I think I’ll watch the spectacle from one of the three Nazaré Webcams. The best time to see the giant waves is between October and March.

Before I write about our last day of the holiday I must mention two restaurants local to the Casa. Lagar da Suzi in the village of Salir de Matos serves traditional Portuguese food. I had the best gravy ever to go with my steak. It was a very friendly atmosphere and Suzi was extremely helpful. Take euros with you as they don’t accept cards.

Solar dos Amigos in Guisado is quite some place and attracts people from far and wide. All the accolades it gets on social media etc are well-deserved. Inside there are five rooms including one with an enormous log-fired barbeque along one wall where delicious meats and fish are grilled to perfection. The portions are big; the staff are very attentive and the food is excellent. It was so good, we went back again on our last evening.

**Jardin Oriental Bacalhoa Buddha Eden.**

Our flight from Lisbon wasn’t until early evening and as we had to leave the Casa by 10.00am, we needed to find something to do. Our hosts suggested ‘a quirky’ place full of statues and only a short drive away so we thought why not? Honestly we were amazed by Jardin Oriental Bacalhoa Buddha Eden. With its 35 hectares, Buddha Eden Garden is the largest oriental, sculpture park in Portugal. As well as statues of Buddha (one is the largest in Europe), the park reflects a multi-faith philosophy. Several cultures and countries are represented including Buddhism, African art, replicas of the Chinese terracotta warriors and a unique collection of Asian plants and flowers. It’s a peaceful place, well laid out with paths leading you through different gardens, hidden corners and interesting viewpoints. It was quiet when we were there which made us think this ‘Eden’ is very underrated and overlooked by tourists. We stayed about three hours and enjoyed a simple lunch washed down with a glass of local wine whilst looking out on a bed of pale blue aliums intersperced with heads of Buddhas. Yes it’s different, yes it’s off the beaten track, yes it’s completely different to any other attraction in Portugal and yes you will be wowed by it.

We couldn’t have found a better place to end our holiday in Portugal and for someone who loves art, photography and gardens it was perfect.

We rounded off our journey back to the airport by stopping off in Mafra, just a few kilometres from the outskirts of Lisbon. We had planned to visit the palace there but we were running out of time so we settled for a tasty Portuguese pastry each and a tea and coffee from the patisserie opposite. The Palácio National is an impressive building but by then we were happy to sit in the square, enjoy the sunshine and our afternoon tea before flying home.

Travelling from Switzerland to Provence.

Montreux to Provence

**Chateau Chillon bordering Lake Geneva.**

It’s never easy leaving the beautiful scenery of Switzerland but as we were heading for our favourite area of France, it wasn’t too much of a wrench.

Our first stop was Montreux in the heart of the ‘Swiss Riviera’ on the shores of Lake Geneva. Already the weather was improving as we walked a little way around the lake in the welcome sunshine. It wasn’t long before we spotted what we were looking for …the statue celebrating a rock legend, Freddie Mercury. Not surprisingly there were a number of people wanting to have a picture with the great man, I wasn’t going to miss the opportunity either.

**Freddie Mercury** **by the shores of Lake Geneva.**

I’m sure Freddie would have approved of both the statue and the location and the dedication on the plinth. What a great tribute.

Grabbing a quick lunch and raising a glass to the man himself we then drove to another famous landmark, Le Chateau Chillon. The word ‘Chillon’ means rocky platform and that’s exactly what this castle sits on, its part and parcel of the rock itself. It’s surrounded by a natural moat and can be accessed from all sides but visitors these days take the easy route along the bridge.

The underground crofts of the castle plus stained glass and the decorated roof of the chapel.

There is evidence everywhere that the castle was hewn out of the rock. The stony floor and vaulted Gothic ceilings are superb but the rooms underground hold a dark history. As well as storing wine and beer barrels, much of the space was used to house prisoners. ‘Offenders’ were chained to the stone pillars and fed meagre rations. The most famous prisoner, was Bonivard, a priest who converted from Catholicism and became a Protestant. Centuries later, the poet Byron was so inspired by the story that he wrote the now famous poem, ‘The Prisoner of Chillon’.

It’s an extensive fortress and has many rooms; the cellars and dungeons being the most interesting. Chateau Chinon has lots of architectural details; paintings, murals and furniture and because of its shape there are several courtyards and interconnecting walkways. If you’re in the area this castle is well worth a visit, not just for its historical significance but for it’s location right on stunning Lake Geneva. After we came out we walked in the garden, bought an ice cream from the shop and sat on the castle wall enjoying the view.

One of the covered walkways.

It’s just twenty minutes to the French border following around the lake. Our hotel that night was excellent and the staff were great. Happy to recommend Hotel le Leman at Saint Gingolph and the lakeside resturant, Restaurant du Port À Meillerie where we ate that evening.

The sun setting over Lac Leman and the view from our balcony.

Wow what a superb breakfast! Ready to face the day we set off in the direction of the medieval city of Annecy. It took us a while to get to the lake which was annoying as we had quite a drive ahead of us from there. Thankfully we managed to find an underground car park just by the historic centre although we didn’t have lot of time to explore or see the old gates which are preserved in what was a fortified town. After stretching our legs walking along the lakeside we turned towards the old town and of course I had to take a picture of the iconic ‘Palais de l’Ile’. It’s built on a rocky island and looks a little like a boat marooned on the river. This town is as you would expect very touristy so after grabbing a baguette for lunch we got on our way again. It was easier to find the road out to the motorway than it had been coming in.

And now we were heading to Provence and our gîte for the week in the village of Lagnes. We’d stayed in this charming Provencal village the year before and it had suited us so well that we decided to go back again. Aurelie and Fabien, the owners are very welcoming and the rooms in the gîte are quite spacious. Although it’s part of the house, the accommodation is self-contained with a private patio leading off from the bedroom. Another reason that we like this gîte is we can use the pool at any time and bbq when we like and there’s no problem with parking.

Lagnes is very unspoilt and has many narrow paths and covered walkways between the old houses. The XIIIth century chateau which is perched on the rock overlooks the village. We walked up there one evening as you get a magnificent panoramic view from the top. The bakery is a short walk from the gîte as is the pub but nearer still is the excellent pizza place. Just one meal there is not enough, le Monde à Sa Porte does great pizzas. We went twice and had a thoroughly good meal on both occasions.

The gite at Lagnes, also the Cave du Luberon which we visit (note the trolley). It’s a necessary part of the holiday.

I can’t speak highly enough of Provence and particularly the south east of the region. It’s our favourite part of France and because we’ve been going there for many years we know the area pretty well. We always go into L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue which is the nearest main town to where we stay but avoid Sundays when the Brocante (Bric & Brac) market is on. It’s impossible to park that day and where once it was somewhere you could pick up a reasonably priced antique and wander easily around the stalls, it’s not like that anymore. We like to go into the town mid-week on a Thursday to the locals’ market and sit in the square outside the Cafe de France with a beer and watch the world go by. I’ve copied this picture from their website. Not sure how long ago it was taken but the cafe itself has been going since 1903. Incidentally, this is not me in the picture!

**The famous Café de France in the centre of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.**

We have the TV chef Keith Floyd to thank for introducing us to this part of France and to L’Isle (as the locals call it). We watched a programme, probably thirty-five years ago now, where the chef had set up his grill on a bridge and was cooking, glass of wine in hand of course. He was waxing lyrical about the town and when the camera swung round you could see why. This ‘Island city’ is very picturesque with its canals of clear, blue water, little bridges, flowers spilling over the tops of the railings and giant waterwheels turning in the Sorgue river. Fortunately although the town is much busier than it used to be it still has lots of charm and we always enjoy walking around and popping into some of the more bohemian, independent shops.

**Thursday market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue followed by a beer.**

**One of the waterwheels along the canal in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue**.

Whilst we’re in Provence we travel around enjoying the countryside, the villages and soaking up the history and the atmosphere. It’s only recently that we’ve discovered the village of Oppéde-le-Vieux. This medieval village is off the main tourist route and is quite remote. You can park a little way outside and pay a small amount or there’s free parking in Oppéde village and enjoy the 30-minute walk to the old village. There’s a well laid out botanic garden at the start to the village which is full of plants and shrubs including ‘garrigue’, which enjoys this dry, Mediterranean climate. Further along the path towards the village is the graveyard which we had a wander round before arriving at the cobblestoned ‘Place de la Croix’, the centre of the village. We were tempted to get a drink at one of the two cafes in the square but decided to wait as we wanted to head up to the Chapel. It’s quite a climb but worth it.

**The medieval village of Oppéde le Vieux.**

At the start of WWII there were around ten people living there. After the war, the interesting ruins attracted artists and students studying architecture and gradually a community grew. Thanks to them the houses, churches and castle ruins were protected and today the village is well preserved. I imagine it’s a heritage site since grants have been procured enabling the ruined castle to be saved from further decay.

The beauty of this village is that it is remote and is more or less unchanged from medieval times. There’s a tea shop in the Place de la Croix where you can sit in the small courtyard and enjoy one of the owner’s refreshing drinks. Perfect to revive you after a steep climb up to the church and a scramble over cobbles on the way down. It’s worth having a look in the boutique shop there where I always find something to buy.

During our week this time we went to several places and rather than a blow-by-blow account I’ll finish this Blog by mentioning a few towns and villages and add a couple more pictures.

The small Provencal villages of Cucuron & Ansouis

We’d spent a pleasant morning wandering around Apt which is the main town of the Luberon. It has a distinct Arabic feel to part of it with several spice stalls and Moroccan carpets on sale in the Saturday morning market. We found a good wine shop where we bought a couple of bottles of wine to take to our friends who live near L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. It was important to buy ‘good’ wine from a vintner rather than a supermarket for this special lunch. On the way back from Apt we meandered over the Luberon Hills and explored the medieval villages of Cucuron & Ansouis. In the latter, we came across a cafe and had a very reasonably-priced lunch sat under a large Plane tree. The castle is well preserved but then it is privately owned. There’s also a beautiful little church in the village with a wonderful set of steps in the shape of a fan.

**Le Verger des Papes restaurant at Châteauneuf du Pape**

I want to mention the village of Châteauneuf du Pape which is, like many settlements in the area, perched on top of a hill surrounded by fields of grapevines, (you have probably heard of this famous, full, red-bodies wine). At its summit is the ruined castle which was built in the 14th century by the popes as a summer residence. There’s not much left of the castle so it’s easy to walk round. The adjacent car park is free too. It was quite a drive there but we like the restaurant which is just a few steps down from the car park. The food at Le Verger des Papes is excellent but not cheap. Sitting in the garden you look across the Rhone valley to Avignon which on a clear day you can see the famous Palais des Papes.

**A typical Provencal Mas (Farmhouse). We are enjoying the company of friends over an unhurried lunch in typical French style.**

Just a couple more places to mention which we always make time to visit. Venasque is one, famous for its cherries also the lovely little chapel there and wonderful views from the ramparts and St Didier, where you must head for the nougaterie shop run by familie Silvain. Oh and I almost forgot Lacoste which is one of our favourite villages. There are so many worth visiting.

I hope my tale of our week in Provence has inspired you to travel that way and explore the countryside and the villages and the markets and all the thing that make this such a wonderful area. Thank you for reading this rather lengthy account. I could have written more …

Travelling to the Bernese Oberland.

In the Bernese Oberland

**Breathtaking view from our balcony at Hotel Tschuggen, Grindlewald.**

Most years, for our summer holiday, we head over to Provence however last year we decided to go to Switzerland via Alsace as well.

It’s a bit of a drive from Calais so we often stop for lunch in Laon; an interesting old, hill-top town with a beautiful cathedral and a good cafe nearby. It’s a steep climb between the high and low parts of the town but we’ve now found a car park just by the medieval gateway.

**Medieval gateway into the town of Laon. The colourful main street and the interior of the magnificent Gothic Cathedral.**

Fed and watered we stopped off at a Logis for the night at a ‘one horse’ town, south-east of Rheims. It was a reasonably priced hotel, good sized room with a restaurant with absolutely ziltch atmosphere. You would have thought someone had just died in there …

Moving on we headed towards Alsace stopping off at the major tourist site of Chateau Haut-Koenigsbourg near the city of Sélestat. The castle sits on top of a large rock, ideal for spotting the arrival of your enemies. Its strategic position however didn’t stop the Swedish artillery who burnt the chateau to the ground in the Middle Ages which was then abandoned for two hundred years. It wasn’t until Alsace was annexed to Germany in 1899 and given to Kaiser Wilhelm II that the castle was rebuilt back in the style of a 15th century fortress. It’s an impressive castle with three storeys, great views all around and plenty to see and do.

Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg.

Before going to our friends in Sélestat we had a walk around a couple of the villages nearby. It was early afternoon and very quiet. The architecture in Alsace is Germanic in style with frontages clad in wide half-timbered panels and most buildings have steeply pitched roofs. The patterns seen on these houses stem from local symbols and traditional decorations. Even though Alsace is part of France, long periods were spent under German influence. The region was finally returned to France in 1945. Many of the street names are Germanic rather than French.

**Traditional Alsace houses, also** the entrance to the main square in Sélestat and its cathedral.

After a very pleasant stay with our friends we finally tore ourselves away from their wonderful hospitality and headed for the Swiss border and the town of Thun. I first visited this town over fifty years ago and it’s still as charming now as it was then. Yes it’s very touristy but it has a lovely feel about it. The Old Town is worth walking through and climbing up the steps to the medieval castle is a must. We didn’t go inside Schloss Thun purely due to lack of time but from the website it sounds as though its worth a visit. Its four distinctive 12th century white towers are a famous landmark – a real fairy tale castle. We did go inside the city church (Stadtkirche) which is just along from the Schloss. It was built in 1330 and has a striking tower which complements the architectural style of the nearby Schloss.

The weather that day was glorious and the town was buzzing. We sat at one of the cafes of which there are several along the banks of the river Aare. This is the longest wholly Swiss river and originates from the Oberaar glacier. I love the bluey-green waters of the river and with the backdrop of the old wooden bridge with flowers along it, you just know you’re in Switzerland.

By late afternoon we’d arrived in the mountain village of Grindelwald where we were staying for four nights. We always stay in the family-run, Hotel Tschuggen; Monica & Robert are so welcoming. We book one of the rooms at the back of the hotel as the view is, (in our view) one of the best in the world. There’s nothing better than relaxing on the balcony with a glass of wine whilst taking in the breathtaking scenery. The breakfast there is excellent and their yogurt …well you’d be hard pushed to find a more delicious yogurt anywhere – those Swiss cows enjoy a good life in the lush Swiss meadows.

**View from our balcony at Hotel Tschuggen.**

As we were staying in the area for a few days and had planned various excursions and walks along some of the mountain trails we bought the Swiss Travel Pass. It appears quite pricey but when you’re using the transport system within the Bernese Oberland and going on several excursions, you do save money.

On our first morning the plan was to take the 25 minute Gondola ride from the village up to First and then walk to Lake Bachalpsee which takes about an hour. There’s a new Cliff Walk at First also a 800 metre ‘First Flyer’ zipline and a high-octane scooter ride down to the next Gondolbahn station so we watched all the action for a while before starting our walk. None of these new attractions are included in the Travel Pass.

**Station at First with the new Cliff Walk.**

We hadn’t walked very far before one of the rangers stopped us to say the trail to the Lake was closed due to recent snowfall so we changed our plan and decided to walk straight to Grosse Scheidegg. We were thwarted there too as the pass was also closed. Nothing we could do but to go back down to Grindelwald where we caught the bus to the new Terminal. It’s all very grand in there with lots of shops so we grabbed a baguette from the Co-op before going on another Gondolbahn up to Mannlichen.

**Walking from Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg**

I do a fair bit of walking and I remember some walks more than others; this one I’m unlikely to forget. Once again, the trail we intended to take was closed due to snow so we looked at the signpost showing the distance to Alpiglen station and as we thought it wasn’t too far we decided to head that way. Unfortunately we had misread the sign, it was a great deal further than we thought. From time to time we could see the station but it never seemed to get any closer. The trail at times wasn’t easy and the clouds kept coming in over the mountain tops which was a little worrying. In the end, having stopped to eat our baguette we decided to head towards Kleine Sheidegg.

What a climb that was! The wind was in our faces, we were tired and the trail was really steep. We almost fell into the cafe, ordered two beers and plomped ourselves down on the nearest seats. Thankfully the weather had improved a little but it didn’t lift our spirits. We caught the train down to Grindelwald and bought some chocolate in the town to sweeten us up, which it did …that and a glass of wine on the balcony, followed by a steaming hot bath.

That evening we walked along to Oncle Tom’s which is a superb pizza place only to find it was full. The day did end well though as we went to another pizza place, Pizzeria da Salvi and had a very good pizza there.

The next day we caught the train to Interlaken and then a second train going to Brienz. Bearing in mind that we had a Swiss Travel Pass it should have been easy to go straight onto the train, the Brienz Rothorn Bahn but no, the tickets didn’t work with the turnstile. We weren’t the only ones realising this and so there was quite a queue to get an actual ticket. Thankfully we squeezed into one of the carriages before the train chugged off. There’s not much room in the carriages what with people and backpacks but don’t be put off going as it’s a good journey, very interesting with some great views. The train takes an hour to get to the Rothorn Kulm with a stop at Planalp middle station to wait for the other train to come down from the summit as it’s a single track cogwheel railroad. They also refuel the steam locomotives with water there.

**Going up to the summit – Rothorn Kulm**.

I seem to be mentioning the weather a little too much in this Blog but unfortunately it was very unsettled most of the time we were in the Bernese Oberland. This day was no exception; lots of cloud at the summit and bitterly cold but there is a good, spacious restaurant where we got a snack and were able to warm up. We did have a quick walk around the top but as soon as the sleet started we caught the next train down. This one was a steam locomotive and was more fun than the diesel one we’d travelled on to get up there.

**A steam-powered locomotive on the Brienz Rothorn Bahn.**

There were limited views on the way down because of the low cloud and rain which might be the reason why the train was late getting in. If you know anything about the Swiss transport system you’ll know that all modes of transport synchronise with one another, in otherwords you hardly ever have to wait long for a connection. Looking at our watches we knew the paddle steamer would be leaving on time which meant we were in danger of missing it.

**Lake Brienz in the rain, a lakeside cottage and the highly polished engine powering the boat.**

With a couple of minutes to spare we ran across from the train to the dock and boarded the steam boat which was just about to leave. We went up to the top deck not realising that it was first class. The waitress told us and said (for whatever the extra cost was), we could stay up there but we said we were happy to go downstairs. Actually it was just as enchanting. The design of the decor was early 20th century with bevelled mirrors, wooden panelling and solid wooden tables like you’d imagine something Agatha Christie would write about. No murders here or shady characters; passengers came and went, everyone shared tables and that way we met some interesting people. These boats are lovingly maintained, it was fascinating to see the engine from the viewing area and we both agreed it had been an interesting experience.

We rounded off the day with an excellent meal at the Hotel Pinte having escaped the rain and being rewarded by a beautiful rainbow as we walked along the Main Street of Grindelwald.

Our last day and wanting to get the most out of our Travel Pass we walked down to the Bus station to get the bus to The Terminal. In this building are several television screens showing what the conditions are like at Kleine Scheidegg or First or the top of the Eiger and other places. Most were pretty cloudy but we decided to get the Eiger Express up to the Eiger Glacier station which takes about fifteen minutes.

**Cloud at the Eiger Gletcher station.**

The weather wasn’t good as we’d seen on the TV screen so after having a warm drink at the top we caught the train down to Kleine Scheidegg and then a train to Wengen. I’m sure this pretty Swiss village is a lot busier than this in the winter but when we were there the main street was virtually deserted and no cars. There didn’t seem much to do so after wandering into a few touristy shops so we headed to the local bar for a couple of glasses of wine and snack.

Not feeling like walking round anymore we headed for the Wengen-Männlichen cable car This is a superb ride in a large cable car with an impressive view of the Lauterbrunnen valley and its iconic waterfalls. The trip is less than five minutes and has an open air balcony which would be great I’m sure in good weather. We then got the gondolbahn down to Grindelwald. It was an ‘interesting’ ride down as we had got on the Karaoke car! Our granddaughters would have loved it but after trying to sing a couple of songs we gave up and were content to enjoy the view.

That evening we did manage to get a table at Oncle Tom’s and thoroughly enjoyed a pizza and their excellent beer. If you’re ever in Grindelwald this is the place to go – reasonable prices, good food and beer and a great atmosphere. It was a perfect way to spend our last evening in the town.

After another excellent breakfast at the hotel we got on our way hoping to escape the rain which had dogged us for a few days and headed out of Switzerland towards France.

This Blog is quite long enough so I’ll write about the rest of our holiday in Part II. Hope its given you a taste for the Bernese Oberland and maybe you’ll be tempted to visit sometime.

From Elephants to Oriental Kwai, Kanchanburi.

Travelling from Chang Mai to Kanchanburi, Thailand.

It was hard to say goodbye to ‘our’ elephants but we were looking forward to staying at our favourite place in the whole of Thailand, Oriental Kwai resort. Before then however we were stopping at a couple of places en route, just to break up the journey. The first stop was Lampang which is famous for the horse & carts which years ago were seen everywhere in Thailand as a form of transport. The town is now one of the few places where they’re used but these days they take the tourists on sightseeing trips around the town. Yes, we did do it, but it wasn’t terribly interesting though. If you go to Lampang, the place to eat is Aroy One Baht. Its absolutely manic with young waiters (and they were all young), racing around. The entertainment is free and the rice is just one Baht, which is about 2pence; the place is a magnet for tourists and watch out …the food is fiery, but delicious.

Leaving our hotel Auangkham Resort in Lampang we drove a few kilometers out of town to Wat Phrathat Lampang Luang. I loved the prayer lanterns at the entrance to this ancient Buddhist temple which is said to enshrine,(one of the many relics) of the Buddha.

**The entrance to Wat Phrathat Lampang Luang.**

Driving in this part of Thailand is so easy. The roads are good and pretty quiet. The only time we cursed was going along an area near to a sugar cane factory. There were lorries heading there in all directions, all over-loaded with sugar cane depositing quite a lot on the road. There were also small lorries with huge loads of big round bales, at least twice as wide as the lorry which virtually ground to a halt whenever there was a hill. Getting past these wide loads wasn’t easy but after a pit stop for lunch we arrived at the old town of Kamphaeng Phet. The town is famous for its Archaeological sites and historical Park and was once a massive fortress protecting the west of Thailand.

**A few of the ancient ruins in the Park.**

This historical Park is large and is a photographer’s dream. It’s located within a forest giving some degree of shade to the extensive monuments and ruins which cover the whole area. If you’re a keen cyclist you can hire bikes to cycle around the sites and explore. There is a road which takes you through the park which we drove along, hopping out along the way whenever we saw an interesting ruin. We then drove to the Visitors Centre where we paid a few Baht to wander around more of the site which has many landmarks, statues and points of interest. The light coming through the ancient monuments was superb that day, very soft which enhanced the setting.

We finally dragged ourselves away from the park as the heat had got to us so we headed to our hotel for the night. Strange place, very impersonal, even charged us for having a bottle of water out of the fridge but it had a nice pool and as we were the only people staying, we had the pool all to ourselves. I’m not going to name the hotel but I will mention that we had an excellent meal that evening by the river at the Baan Rim Nam River View restaurant. No-one could argue with the name of the restaurant, it’s right by the River Ping and has great views across to the town. This family-run restaurant is reasonably priced, the service was good and the fish, excellent.

Having paid our dues at the hotel we were on our way to Kanchanaburi and Oriental Kwai and couldn’t wait to get there. Could it really be the seventh time we’ve stayed there? The wonderful thing is …it never changes. How do you improve on perfection? It is without doubt our favourite place to stay and by that I mean anywhere in the world. The owners are lovely; the staff can’t do enough for you; the facilities are excellent; the grounds are idyllic and the food is delicious. It’s hard for us not to go back each year.

Because I’ve written about this area in my Blog before including the places of interest I have just add a few pictures and a short description of those places we went to this time.

**Wat Metta Tham Photiyan Kanachanaburi**

Watt Metta Tham Photiyan is the most famous Chinese temple in Kanchanaburi province. There are several huge halls all very fascinating, teak wood is everywhere. One houses a huge statue of a Chinese goddess with eighteen arms. The complex is expanding quickly and already in one of the halls are many statues made of carved wood ready to be erected in place. The temple is 23kilometres out of Kanchanaburi.

A great temple this one as long as you don’t mind a steep climb. Going up and through the dragon’s body enthralls the children and adults too. Great views of the river from the top, you might find a monk there, sitting by a small tent, who for a few Baht will give you a blessing. You may feel after climbing all those steps that you deserve one! Wat Ban Tham is definitely worth a visit not only for the exhilerating walk to the top and the view but along the way you can divert off to go inside a large cave full of stalactites and stalagmites.

Another temple worth a visit is Wat Tham Pu Wa which is also full of stalactites and stalagmites and buddhist shrines. Don’t let the entrance fool you, the architecture is influenced apparently by the Khmer Arts and is not the most interesting building on the site. It is however the main entrance to this huge cave which has two floors, lots of statues and winding walkways often behind the huge stalagmites. This Wat is a renowned meditation centre and attracts both Buddhist and Chinese followers who come to worship the statues depicting each of the Chinese astrological signs. This Temple is close to Watt Metta Tham and so it’s possible to visit both on the same morning.

And finally …

The town of Kanchanaburi is definitely worth visiting. Most visitors congregate by the infamous bridge over the River Kwai, built during the Second World War by Asian forced labour and Allied POW’s. It’s easy to walk along but the majority of tourists don’t walk the whole way down the bridge or take the steps down to the Chinese temple, Guan Im Sutham Temple which is worth a visit. There are several stalls in the square by the entrance to the bridge, all selling trinkets or Tshirts for the tourists. The Floating Restaurant by there offers a wide choice of meals and is good value.

If you are wondering …we are already booked to go back to Oriental Kwai, we can’t keep away!

A week in sunny Kos.

The Greek island of Kos

**Near Kefalos and our apartment at Andreas Studios with its fab. swimming pool.**

We needed a week’s holiday, somewhere that wouldn’t cost the earth and preferably with some good weather. Mentioning this to our neighbour he told us about apartments on the island of Kos run by friends which has reasonably priced rooms, a lovely swimming pool and a good restauarant. It wasn’t long before we had booked a room at Andreas & Rita’s Studios,near the town of Kefalos. https://www.self-catering-apartments-kos.co.uk/

As you can see from the pictures, the coastline is beautiful and was just down the road from the apartment. Andreas & Rita were so welcoming and after leaving the cases in our very spacious apartment we enjoyed an excellent meal in their restaurant washed down with a few pints of lager. This was defintely the right place for us and we couldn’t wait to explore the area the next day.

It was tempting to have a swim in the pool first but we decided to walk down to the shops of which there were just a few including a very good supermarket which had all the things we needed – fresh fruit, warm croissant, jam and yogurt. After a very slow breakfast we did hit the pool and lazed there for much of the rest of the day. That evening we had a meal at one of the many local restaurants along the seafront. ‘Tanipota’ is a relatively new tapas-style restaurant in Kamari Bay a five minute walk from our apartment and is very popular.

The next day a car came to collect us to take us to the car hire place. We’d booked a car for five days so we could look around the island. Kos is only a small island but having said that, there’s lots to see and do. Sandy beaches (although not all), stunning views, hilly outcrops to explore, a varied countryside with picturesque villages of typical Greek whitewashed houses, full of flowers and taverns offering tasty local food, and the quaint capital of Kos Town. Here’s a selection of pictures taken during our trips round:-

This 205 year old windmill is well worth a visit and the only windmill still in use on the island. There’s no charge to go inside where a guide tells you about the workings but you are expected to pay for your refreshments by buying some of the delicious biscuits made from the flour. A good gift shop too.

Driving around we stopped at one of the tourist spots to look at all the peacocks. There were lots of cats too and a chap selling food to give to the tame peacocks. There’s probably a story as to why they’re at this particular spot in the forest but we didn’t find out what it was.

There are Greek churches dotted everywhere around and often like this one, nowhere near a town or village. I like photographing churches and was very pleased this one was open. It was just down the road from the peacock place. The painted murals inside were beautiful and I also liked the simplicity of the interior. Not always the case as you’ll see towards the end of this Blog.

**Views from the ruined castle at Kefalos**

That evening we drove up to Kefalos town to a restauarant which had had a very good write-up. We could see why. We had an excellent meal at Maistrali and would recommend it. This is a hillside town with great views but to get a full panorama you need to walk slightly out of the town to the ruined castle. There’s hardly anything left but it’s worth the climb up for the views. I found it quite tricky getting back down to the road but I wasn’t wearing the right shoes! Can you spot the two cats lounging on the edge of the cliff enjoying the evening sun?

**Entrance into Kos Town. The Harbour front, Hippocrates statue and the new town area**

Like most people visiting the island for the first time we spent a day in Kos Town. What a great place. I expect at the height of the summer it would be packed with tourists but out of season it wasn’t. We were impressed with the harbour and all the well-maintained gardens and flower beds. We had a snack at one of the cafes on the harbour front and weren’t charged a ridiculous amount. We both thought that the architecture had a moorish feel about it. I thoroughly enjoyed browsing the little shops in the narrow streets away from the front and bought a couple of things. That called for lunch and we were spoilt for choice. In the end we ate at ‘Zorbas Eat Greek’ in the Old Town and very much enjoyed it.

Walking back out of town on the way to the large, free car park we spotted a sign for the Odeon Roman ampitheatre. It’s quite something and well preserved with restored marble seating & galleries. The catacombs underneath are interesting too.

**Views from the terrace at Jenny Camel bistro.**

After our trip to Kos Town we decided to spend a lazy morning the next day by the pool and then to check out a couple of beaches. Camel Beach is very popular and has two restaurants, which are only a few meters apart: Jenny Camel, we were told offers more of a personal service and that was borne out by the very warm welcome. The home made bread was delicious but we turned down the kind offer of taking another loaf away with us as a gift. They were cetainly lovely, generous people.

**‘Agios Theologos Beach’** **(ignore the wonky skyline!)**

We then spent a couple of hours on another beach chilling out before driving over to ‘Agios Theologos Beach’ known appropriately as ‘Sunset Beach’. Tourists flock to the west coast of the island to watch the flame-coloured sunsets from this beach and see the chiselled cliffs and coves.

When we were there it was really quiet, just a few people and it wasn’t the best of sunsets but the coastline is impressive. A decent pair of shoes is useful when you’re scrabbling around as the sand is very gritty.

It was our penultimate day so we wanted to do some more exploring. First stop was the ruins of an ancient healing temple & medical school where Hippocrates once practiced. Asklipieio is about 4km from Kos town and is the site of a historic hospital. The ruins date from the first half of the 3rd century BC and are extensive. Great for photography particularly on a beautiful, sunny day. The entrance charge is €8.00 which is well worth it. You also get great views from the site down to Kos and across to the Turkish coast.

After wandering around the Greek ruins we were in need of something to eat …and drink. We had planned to stop at the village of Lagoudi Zia which is a small mountain village. Zia is a popular place to visit and is known for ‘its charming cobbled lanes lined with tavernas, shops for handmade crafts, and traditional blue-and-white houses. Domed Orthodox churches dot the village, and there sweeping views extend to the coast’. Having said all this which I’ve ‘lifted’ from a guide book I have to confess that we drove through it and didn’t stop. Even out of season the streets were teeming with tourists and all we could see was shop after shop of Greek ‘tat’. Not for us so we carried on to the next village and had lunch in a small family-run cafe with just a few locals and a couple of other visitors. Much more enjoyable and peaceful too.

**Ruins of the castle and settlement of Palaio Pyli**

The drive round after lunch was quite something with narrow winding roads and stunning views, we seemed to be climbing up forever. I can’t remember whether we had already decided to walk up to this ruined castle or whether we saw it and thought we’d give it a try. The ruins and settlement of Palaio Castle tower above the village of Pylie and is reached by going up a forest path about three kilometres or so. Along the way you come across ruined churches and other signs of the settlement which dates back to the 11th century. The view of the castle remains was tantalising and although the path up there was very uneven, mostly cobbles, we didn’t think about giving up until we got near the top. It was tough and even though we don’t like to be beaten we looked at the final stage and knew we had to turn back. It was disppointing but I did get some shots of the ruins and the terrain and the resident goats.

**Ruins of one of the three churches in the Pyli settlement**

This had been quite an active day to say the least so that evening we decided to go back to the fish restaurant, Cavos Taverna which was just around the corner from our apartment. Not only is the fish cooked beautifully but Mama’s home made honey cake is delicious. Everyone is given this to round off the meal. I was tempted to go round the plates on other tables where people had left some and hoover it up. I should have asked for the recipe.

The other restaurant we visited twice was Maistrali in Kefalos which we would also recommend. Just before we went for our meal we wandered around the town and looked inside the main church. This church is nothing like the one we’d been to earlier in the week; the inside of this one is decorated …everywhere. There’s not a square inch left uncovered as you can see.

I hope this Blog has given you a flavour of the island of Kos. We thoroughly enjoyed our week and wouldn’t hesitate to say that if you decide to visit do get in touch with Andreas & Rita’s Studios, https://www.self-catering-apartments-kos.co.uk/ Lovely people, spacious apartment, good food and a great location.

Holiday in Kanchanaburi & Sangkhlaburi, Thailand.

Kanchanabury to Sangkhlaburi

As soon as we land at Bangkok we head out, north-west to the town of Kanchanaburi. It takes about three hours by car. We used to stay in Bangkok and catch the early morning train but quite honestly now as soon as we land we just want to get to our favourite place – https://www.orientalkwai.com we love The Oriental Kwai Resort. It’s peaceful, the gardens are beautiful, the pool is great and the food served at the riverside restaurant is excellent. In the evening there is nothing more relaxing than walking down to the riverside to watch the calm, waters of the River Kwai flow by as the sun sets slowly behind the trees.

**Cottage no 10 at ‘Oriental Kwai’ – we’ve arrived!**

**Inside no 10 with welcoming flowers. The shrine is just by our balcony.**

**Beautiful, lush tropical gardens. Delightful swimming pool, rhs pic taken from the banks of the River Kwai.**

Getting over jet lag didn’t take us long. On our first day I walked into the nearby town of Lat Ya and John cycled. At least my legs didn’t let me down unlike the bike …a flat tyre. Both feeling hot and not yet adjusted to the heat we called into the cafe bar on the way back. We ordered a cold drink, not having a clue what was coming but it was very refreshing.

**The shady patio area at the Slow Bar cafe and a very refreshing drink.**

The owner very kindly, understanding the bike problem stored it away behind the garden gate. When we got back to Oriental Kwai, John told Evelyn, one of the owners that we’d had to leave the bike at the cafe. “No problem”, she said. “No-one around here would steal it”.

An over-energetic morning had left us rather tired so after a splendid lunch washed down with a Singha beer we spent the afternoo by the pool. A little later, as we always do, we walked down to the river to watch the sun go down.

A boat trip down from Oriental Kwai to Kanachanaburi is well worth it espcially if you can share the cost with another couple. You get a great view of the iconic bridge over the river and arrive in the city avoiding the traffic.

**A trip down the river Kwai starting from the hotel.**

**The popular floating restaurant alongside the iconic bridge over the river Kwai.**

We’ve been to the bridge many times but never seen the area so quiet. Maybe we’d got there before the tourist buses or perhaps the tourist trade just hasn’t picked up again yet?

**Great to take pictures without the bridge swarming with tourists.**

The various stalls were really quiet but I made one trader’s day when I bought three of her bracelets. She waved the banknotes around to signify she was delighted to have made a sale.

The next day we picked up a hire car and John drove to Sangkhlaburi. It’s an easy drive until you get about forty kilometres from the town and then it’s hilly with lots of bends until you arrive down into the town. Goods views of the lake but it’s not easy for the driver to look.

Sangkhlaburi is a small town, surounded by mountains and sits at the end of the Khae Laem Lake. It has an interesting mixture of cultures because of its location near the Burmese border. The people are a mix of Thai, many from the Mon ethnic group who have their own language and customs and Burmese people who have left their country and settled in the town. It’s famous for its handmade wooden bridge which although it looks old, it isn’t. Spanning the river this bridge is the longest wooden bridge in Thailand and was built to link the town with the splendid Wat Wang Wiwekaram temple. It spans the Song Kalia river from the town to the Mon village of Wang Kha. A section of the bridge was washed away a few years ago and was quickly rebuilt. The water level of the lake drops dramatically in the dry season which is a good time to take a boat trip to see the three temples which were submerged when a dam was built across the lake and completely covered the village in the valley.

We chose to go to Sangkhlaburi at this time as we knew there was a festival celebrating young boys becoming novice monks. We were a little late getting there so we missed the boys and their families processing across the bamboo bridge but I got some pictures as the crowds went past us.

**Young novices and their families celebrating this special day.**

A little later that day we saw the young boys in their colourful robes; their hair closely cut and clearly getting used to their new attire. Traditionally the young novices serve in the temple for a minimum period of three months. These days some monks serve for as little as 15 days or a week. A family earns great respect and merit when a son becomes a monk.

**Enjoying the sights of the river before returning to the temple.**

Sangkhlaburi is not yet on the tourist’s radar but it won’t be long before it becomes a popular destination. True it’s a small town and there’s not masses to do but the Thai Buddhist temple, Wang Wiwekaram Temple is spectacular and well worth a visit; the boat trip to the sunken temples is a must and the ride through the forest to the new and huge floating Buddha which just a handful of Thai tourists have discovered makes for an interesting itinerary. We chose basic cafes on both nights where not surprisingly not a word of English was spoken (we didn’t expect it) and the menu was of course written in Thai. We managed to order beer and as we’re happy to eat most things, we were content with a rice dish. The second cafe had no pictures of the dishes but one of the diners came to our rescue having got an App on her phone which translated the menu (very handy). During our two-day stay we found the people very friendly and helpful.

On our second day we drove to a Mon-Karen village near the Myanmar border. It’s wise not to go right to the border and anyway there isn’t much to see. The road turns into a dust track before you get there which was enough to signal we should turn back.

I’ve mentioned the ‘floating’ Buddha which is a new statue built on one of the hillsides just outside of town but there is another important temple Chedi Phutthakhaya which we didn’t visit this time. It’s style is very different to that of the Wang Wiwekaram Temple and to be honest it wouldn’t look out of place on a Disney set. Lots of stalls selling tourist rubbish run alongside the car park. If you are tight for time definitely drive or walk up through the tree-lined path up to the new Buddha. The site is unfinished but even with Buddha covered in scaffolding, ‘he’ is magnificiant and can be seen ‘floating’ above the ground from miles around. It appears the temple has yet to be named. I can imagine when the temple is officially opened the celebration will go on for days. We really liked this area. It’s very peaceful and the way the route has been designed to wind through the trees is lovely. The views from the top are stunning and I particuarly liked the way you could glimpse the golden rooftops of Wat Wang Wiwekaram through the trees. The Wat was our next stop.

**The beautiful Wat Wang Wiwekaram temple**.
**Many of the monks are from the Mon ethnic group.**

The temple is open from 1.30am until 12.30pm and I should imagine whatever time you visit there will be groups of people sat everywhere along the marble corridors. When we visited there was an exhibiton of photographs hung all along the vast corridors. Brilliant pictures by various local photographers showing the lives of the local people, great portaits and group shots and Festivals. This little girl has her face decorated in traditional Burmese style with yellow ochre. (I’ve lifted this from Google) …”Traditionally, the women grind the bark of the thanakha tree on a flat circular stone with a bit of water. This creates a milky yellow liquid that dries quickly when applied to the skin. This mixture creates a powdery protective ideal not only for faces but also for the arms.” This little girl was very sweet and loved learning ‘Pat-a-cake’, no language barrier with this game.

**The temple is a sacred place for all nationalities living in Sangkhlaburi,**
**especially for Mon people**.

All this walking round made us very thirsty so we headed down to the Mon village where I bought a T-shirt from one of the many shops lining the main route then we sat and had a cold drink followed by free bananas and tea.

Ready to face the afternoon heat once more we walked to the Thai side by the Mon bridge and came across a local boatman who for 500 baht took us on the lake to see the three sunken temples: the Karen’s Srisuwan Temple, the Mon’s Wat Wang Wiwekaram temple and the Thai Wat Somdet temple.

The only structure from the submerged town that remains today is the Waat Sam Prasob shrine, also known as the Sunken Temple. Built by the Mon and Karen tribes, it was once the heart of the old town before the dam flooded the area in 1984.

As we were there in the dry season we were able to walk around and take a closer look at the inside. I was in my element taking pictures and would have stayed longer but our boatman had two more temples to show us.

**The middle picture is of the second temple -Srisuwan Karen’s temple, which we saw from all sides. (Not terribly interesting).**

He then took us across the lake to the old Wat Somdet Temple. We moored and then walked up past a small village to this ancient abandoned Thai temple. It reminded us of Angkor Wat with all the tree roots entwined amongst the stonework.

Having sailed back along by the Karen’s temple again we ended our hour-long trip with this delightful boatman by floating gently under the Mon bridge and sat for the obligatory picture with the bridge as a backdrop.

**The specatacular Mon bridge and the Booths returning from the three sunken-temple boat tour.**

It was time for a beer so we headed for the cafe on the Thai side of the Mon Bridge to watch the sun setting over the Song Kalla river. A final picture of our boat heading back was a fitting close to our two days in Sangkhlaburi. We felt we’d done the place justice on this our return visit. It is an interesting place and I’m sure it won’t be long before the town is firmly on the tourist route.

Travelling Around Central Spain – Part 1V Salamanca & Segovia

Salamanca Spain, Segovia Central Spain

Salamanca in northwest Spain is famous for its ornate sandstone architecture, its university, the religious buildings and the beautiful expanse of the Plaza Mayor. I love the river there too and the old bridge.

This was our second day in Salamanca and what a great place to celebrate my husband’s birthday. We knew we’d be heading to the wonderful Plaza Mayor square for lunch but before that we were looking forward to visiting the famous Art Nouveau & Art Deco Museum. We’d struck it lucky as on a Thursday, which it was, admission is free. I would have loved to have taken lots of pictures in there but it wasn’t allowed. The small bronze and marble scuptures are superb as are the many glass pieces intricately worked also the furniture and textiles. There’s a large collection of porcelain dolls, many of which were earily lifelike, not to my taste but superbly well made. This is one of the best collections of Art Deco and Art Nouveau muesums we’ve visited, so many pieces I would love to have in our little cottage!

Glad to say there was no restriction on taking pictures of the pieces in the cafe which needless to say were copies.

**I don’t care if she’s not original, I’d still take her home.**

**The birthday Boy. The stained glass is modern but superb.**

I also bought a few postcards in the shop but resisted the temptation to buy anything else. Copies or not of pieces in the museum, …they were all very expensive! Afterwards we walked into the city and headed for the beautiful square of Plaza Mayor surely one of the most beautiful squares in Spain?

**On the lhs, an example of inscriptions seen on the walls in the city. On the rhs a prime example of the stunning, ornate, sandstone architecture.**

Walking along the streets of this fine city is an absolute joy. I love the architecture and the colours of the buildings. Quite a few have inscriptions on the walls which are called vitores. Centuries ago they were written in bulls blood and I suppose due to the moderate climate in this area, the writing is still clear to see. There can’t be many better places to have lunch on your birthday than sitting at at one of the cafes in Plaza Mayor watching the world go by and enjoying a glass or two of wine.

**An aperitif before our meal to celebrate my man’s birthday**.

It wasn’t easy to drag ourselves away from the square but we had more sightseeing to do. First of all we headed for the University, All group tours include a stop at the entrance which is a wonderfully carved facade with a hidden frog in a small square. Everyone is of course chlallenged to find it. I waited a while to get a clear shot of the entrance but it didn’t happen, however the picture on the left gives a good idea of the intricate carvings. Thankfully the courtyard was very quiet. We didn’t go into the University which is the oldest in Europe as we were in need of a siesta.

**The Plaza at the entrance to the Universidad Pontifica and the Courtyard at the University.**

If the streets of Salamanca during the day are full of things to do and see, it’s a joy at night to wander along and admire the Gothic and Baroque architecture of some of the landmark buildings. By the evening too, the tour buses have left.

**Two of the Romamesque style towers of the Cathedral.**

It was our final evening in Salamanca so we couldn’t resist having one last look at Plaza Mayor.

We left Hospedium Hotel Casino which had been a perfect place to stay with its stunning views of the River Tormes. Next stop and the final one of this holiday, Segovia.

**One of the many old bridges spanning the River Tormes, Salamanca.**

Segovia is a World Heritage City in central Spain and like Toledo, the oldest part was built around and atop of a hillside with narrow streets which wind upwards towards the magnificent cathedral. It’s one of the highest cities in Spain. Finding our hotel wasn’t easy especially navigating through the medieval quarter but after asking a couple of locals we arrived outside Hotel Don Felipe. A quick dash in to get the directions for the hotel garage which was built inside the rock. Not easy to park in there but the lift took us straight into the hotel. Three flights of stairs later and we had a stunning view of the Alcazar from our balacony.

The Alcazar dating back to the 12th century and part of the city wall.

With only a short time to look around the city we started at the famous aqueduct. It’s one of the best-preserved Roman aqueducts in the world and measures 800 metres. It really is impressive and even more so when you climb up the Postigo steps at the side to look along it. No mortar was used in its construction with each block placed on top of the other. These Romans knew what they were doing. The grooves you can see at the side of the higher blocks were made by dragging and raising the blocks into position.

**The Aquaduct in the centre of Segovia.**

Leaving that area we walked through part of the Jewish quarter with very narrow streets and tall buildings. Some of the courtyards in this area are apparently well worth visiting but we didn’t have time. We decided to visit the Cathedral instead of the main Synagogue.

**Incredibly tall pillars and stunning fan vaulted ceiling in the main nave with a superb cloister dating back to the 16th century.**

This Gothic Cathedral dominates the town and was built between 1525 and 1577. The height of the pillars is immense and the cloisters are superb. Included in the ticket price of £6.17 is acess to the Bell Tower which gives you a 360 degree view over the city.

**Part of the city with the backdrop of the snow-capped mountains.**

One last visit we managed to squeeze in that afternoon was to The Alcazar Fortress. We found the interior quite disappointing unless you’re keen on armoury but the narrow climb up to the tower was worth it – great views.

Apparently the Disney Corporation used the castle as the design for the film ‘Cinderella’. It does have a fairytale look about it.

**It shows just how close the castle is to the edge of the city. Lots of fields.**

After our visit we went back to our hotel for a well-earned rest. We’d booked a restaurant Asador David Guijarro for our last meal of the holiday which meant a walk through the city streets. What we hadn’t expected was coming across a procession marking the start of Semana Santa (Holy Week). It seemed like all the townspeople were involved. It certainly lasted quite a while so we were a litle delayed getting to the restaurant.

**Quite a procession with an array of costumes, bands and religious groups.**

Walking back through the quiet streets of Segovia was great. We’d had a good meal and now we were looking forward to going home. We’d had a great time touring central Spain. It’s difficult to say which city and village we’d enjoyed the most but probably Salamanca was our favourite city I hope all these Blogs have inspired you to go and visit, so much to see and do.

**The quiet streets of night time Segovia.**

**A fairytale castle and a great view from our hotel balcony.**

Travelling around Central Spain Part III -Salamanca

Salamanca Spain

Salamanca is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and quite rightly so, it’s a beautiful city. We parked (for free) the other side of the River Tormes and walked across one of the main bridges into the heart of the city. And what a view! Ahead were the magnificent Cathedrals. There are two of them, joined together, but more about that later. Looking to our left we could see the Salamanca Roman Bridge with its twenty-six arches of which fifteen date from Roman times. All this and we hadn’t got into the city yet!

**The Roman Bridge of Salamanca crossing the River Tormes and the city’s two cathedrals … Catedral Vieja de Santa Maria and Catedral Nueva.**

Following the main route into Salamanca is one of the most interesting introductions to a city you could have. We skirted past the entrance to the famous Art Deco museum which was on our list to visit the next day. I took a picture of two of the imposing doors to the Old Cathedral as we passed plus one of Francisco de Salinas, who was a music theorist and organist. Hope he liked pigeons as they obviously like to perch on his statue.

**Wonderfully carved doors guarding the entrance to the North and South transepts of the new Cathedral and a statue of Fransisco de Salinas musician and humanist.**

We peeked into a few shops along the pedestrianised streets of Tor and Zamora. I couldn’t resist photographing this one with all the hams and sausages hanging up. These are a speciality of the region.

**Quite a selection of cured hams and sausages.**

We didn’t linger long walking through the main shopping area although we did stop to admire the tall buildings which line either side of the street. It was getting on for lunchtime and we were aiming for the magnificent Plaza Mayor, one of the grandest and most imposing squares in all of Europe. The square has been an important meeting place for the citizens and students of Salamanca for centuries. This is where you go to enjoy a coffee, a wine, meet a friend or take a stroll around the square passing all of its 88 arches.

So many cafes to choose from, it had to be one in the sunniets corner. We sat and had a glass of wine, watched the people go by, had another glass of wine and then a bite to eat – just perfect. Having re-charged our batteries it was time to head off to visit Salamanca’s Cathedrals

I don’t know if this is unique but there can’t be many cities who can boast two Cathedrals joined together. One dates back to the 12th & 13th centuries whilst the ‘new’ one was started in the 16th century. The old cathedral dedicated to Santa Maria de la Sede is built in the Romanesque style and as well as many beautiful features it’s best known for the magnificent altarpiece of the main chapel dating from the 1440’s. We are kicking ourselves now for not actually going into either cathedral as we decided to do the rooftop tour linking the two and looking down onto the buildings. As you walk up there is a window you can peer through to see the old Cathedral but that’s as near as we got. I did get a picture with my 75-300 lens of the wonderful altarpiece at the end of the Main Chapel.

**View of the Main Chapel and altarpiece in the Old Cathedral.**

Carrying on, the views from the top of the old Cathedral are well worth the climb including being almost level with one of the many pairs of nesting storks you see at the top of buildings in Salamanca.

A word of warning! If you are going up to the bell tower, avoid being in there late morning if you can. These are serious bells, many sets of them. We were there when they rang out the half-hour and take it from me …they are deafening.

**One of the four sets of bells in the tower of the new Cathedral**.

Once you come out at the top you walk along between the two cathedrals which is quite something along with the great views of the city not to mention the architecture of both buildings. The construction of the New Cathedral began in 1513 which is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin and again I’m sorry we didn’t go inside.

**The walkway between the Old Cathedral and the New Cathedral.**

At the end of the walkway we followed a passageway into the New Cathedral which gives you a bird’s-eye view of one of the three naves and some of the beautiful stained glass windows of which there are apparently almost a hundred. This is a huge Cathedral with eighteen chapels all elaborately decorated, a high and low choir and a huge Sacristy comprising several rooms.

**One of the three naves in the New Cathedral.**

Once outside we walked back to our hotel Casino Del Tormes which is right by the Tormes river and a short walk from the centre of the city. We were impressed with the hotel as it was very reasonably priced, the breakfast was excellent with lots of choice, it’s in a quiet area of the city near the iconic Roman Bridge and our room had a lovely view of the river.

That evening we headed backto the Plaza Mayor before finding somewhere for dinner. At nightime the city takes on a different persona. All the magnificent architecture lit up and the place alive, not just with tourists but local people drawn as they have been for centuries to the square.

**Baroque architecture, amazing detail.**

I could have taken lots of pictures as the buildings looked wonderful all lit up. The one below is an attempt to show the expanse of Salamanca’s famous Plaza Mayor.

**Plaza Mayor (panoramic shot taken on my mobile phone).**

Walking back to the hotel after an OK meal but nothing special we had to smile at the sign outside what looked like a pretty ordinary small convenience store. Clearly they catered for all needs!

**Get your snacks and other ‘delights’ here …**

The next day we visited the Art Deco Museum. A good day to choose as on a Thursday it’s free admission. I took lots of pictures, so as I think this Blog is long enough, I’ll write a second one on the museum. I hope there’s enough in this one to show how impressed we were with the city of Salamanca.

Travelling in central Spain Part II

A tour of Central Spain including Oropesa and Candelario

There are lots of things we love about Spain and getting ‘free food’ when you order a drink is one of them. We’d left Toledo going round by the scenic route just to have one more glimpse of the old city before heading off towards Oropesa.

We were taking our time and decided to leave the main road and head for a village to see if the castle there was open – it wasn’t. The ‘town’ itself, and this is the only way I can describe it, is very utalitarian in its layout. Row upon row of small, identical houses in a regimented grid. The factory was nearby and so this town was obviously purpose-built but seemed to lack any soul. As we only walked to the castle we might have got the wrong impression of the place but it wasn’t somewhere we wanted to linger.

**A splendid castle on the edge of the town**. **(Perhaps its only feature)?**

Back on the main road again and by this time we felt we needed a drink. We didn’t have to wait too long as we arrived at Talavera de la Reina. It’s a large city famous for ceramics. As we were driving round the ring road we spotted a cafe in the park. It was like an ‘Imbis’-style cafe you get in Germany. We only ordered two beers but along with that came a free tapas. It was so tasty, you really feel you’re getting lunch for nothing. It certainly set us up for the last part of our journey to Oropesa.

In Spain there are state owned luxury hotels that are usually located in historic buildings, Parador de Oropesa is no exception. This part of the 15th century castle was fully restored in 1930 and converted into the first Parador. It is a beautiful place to stay and is full of paintings and artefacts and lush furnishings. Price-wise it’s not as expensive as you would think. There are actually two castles on the site; the Parador being the 15th century Palace of the Alvarez de Toledo family and the other, looking more like a castle is a partially preserved Arab fortress built around the same time.

Parador do Oropesa — **Parador de Oropesa** **(one of the castles).**

I’m sure there are some great views from the parapet across to the mighty Sierra de Gredos but it was overcast and drizzling when we got up the next day and the visibilty was poor. Having said that we were given a warm welcome at the castle and were able to wander around on our own – we were the only visitors and paid a modest €1.50 each, the concession price which was great value. Every year in April the town celebrates “Medieval Days” with everyone, including riders on horseback taking to the streets to converge on the castle where much festivities take place and much alcohol consumed (by all accounts).

14th century castle at Oropesa — **Castello de Oropesa**

With the weather improving slightly we decided to stop at the medieval city of Plasencia. There is so much evidence of the importance of this area in those times. The old quarter includes ancestral homes owned by the noblemen and many signifiant religious buildings. Placensia has significant historical remains with ramparts enclosing most of the centre of the city. We were lucky that day as the weekly market was in full swing. All the produce was displayed beautifully on the stalls including one which was selling nothing but young vegetable plants to take home and plant in your own garden. Certainly takes the stress out of trying to grow your own from seed!

The only thing was, because there were so many stalls and shoppers it was hard to appreciate the main square which is lined with lots of splendid buildings including The City Hall. Placensia is well worth a visit. I wish now we’d gone into the Old and New Cathedrals but we did wander through several of the medieval streets with some interesting architecture. A good place for shops too.

And now it was time to head for the hills. Next stop, the little village of Candelario where we were staying the night. It’s a very historic place, steeped in history and is described as one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. We were definitely going to include this one in our itinerary. Because we were there before the summer tourist season got into full swing it was very quiet. Come the summer tourist season people flock here to marvel at the traditional architecture, learn more of it’s cultural history and enjoy the beautiful setting. In the winter its a thriving resort being near to a ski station. Candelario nestles between high mountains and driving the winding road up to it we were grateful to our hotel for giving us such precise directions. There’s a car park at the top of the village and it wasn’t far to trundle our cases down the uneven street to our hotel, Posada de Candelario. More about this sweet little hotel in a moment.

**On the right is our hotel, Posada de Candelario.**

Originally the villagers made their living mainly from cattle. They slaughtered the animals in the streets by the many fountains dotted here and there and the blood was washed away down the narrow watercourses which run alongside the ‘main’ streets. That way the village stayed clean and the fast flowing water was always crystal clear.

**Some of the interesing things we spotted on our walk round Candelario.** **The poster is advertising one of the many festivals which take place in this region.**

The picture below (top rh) shows half a door in front of the entrance to some of the houses. Most of the villagers would have had one outside their house which protected it from the snow but also prevented animals from going in or out of the house. Days gone by animals used to live on the bottom floor in order to provide warmth to the house, also it was a way to keep the house ventilated during the season of slaughtering (it lasted during all the cold months, from November to February). Pigs were kept too from which sausages were made and sold throughout Spain.

**Top left – one of the many medieval fountains. Bottom right – a view from the car park of the snow-capped Sierra de Béjar mountain range.** **The three central pictures show the cosy sitting room at Posada de Candelario, our bedroom and one of the hotel cats on Reception duty.**

Our hotel couldn’t have been more different from the one in Oropesa. Posada de Candelario is located in an old Casa Chacinera built in the XIXth centrury. The building is full of character as you can imagine with oak beams, wooden stairs to the first floor and beyond. We were given a very warm welcome by Enrique and it wasn’t long before we felt very much at home. A spacious bedroom with a lovely, cosy bed was perfect.

The drinks and snacks in the sitting room are on a help-yourself-basis; simply write down what you’ve had and it’s added to your bill. The cats come and join you to have a warm by the fire in the sitting room and the breakfast was excellent with lots of home-made jams, warm croissants and as many cups of tea and coffee as you like. One of the reasons for mentioning food is that we weren’t able to find a restaurant in the village that evening that was open. We found the only pub in the village that was open. The food was limited as was the landlord’s conversation but we had some local ham and cheese and a beer which was something. The savoury snacks back at the hotel were very welcome too. In the tourist season the hotel serves evening meals and by all accounts, reading the reviews, the food is excellent.

We enjoyed our short stay at this cozy hotel in Oropesa and would have liked to have lingered longer but our next stop was the famous city of Salamanca. This UNESCO World Heritage city is one of Spain’s most beautiful and we were so excited to get there. More about that in the third part of this Blog on our tour of Central Spain.

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