Bristow’s Perfect Haveli in Jodhpur

In my Blog about our stay in Jodhpur I mentioned the Haveli where we stayed in the Old City. I guess the first thing is to explain what an Haveli is. Of course I’ve gone to Wikipedia as it’s the easiest way, so here goes … An Haveli is a traditional townhouse or mansion in India, Pakistan, Nepal and Bangladesh, usually one with historical and architectural significance. The word haveli is derived from Arabic hawali, meaning “partition” or “private space”. Well I can’t argue with that but George Bristow’s Haveli is much more than that.

Welcome to Bristow's Haveli n Jodhpur

Bristow’s Haveli as George’s web site says offers guests a unique experience inside the old walled city of Jodhpur. It’s a place where you can escape the hustle and bustle of the city …and that is so right! From the time you step through the front door you’re met with not only a lovely warm welcome but a feeling of complete calm. This place is a real gem and the service is fantastic, we couldn’t fault a thing.

The wonderful people you will meet at Bristow's Haveli in Jodhpur

Every morning Abjez would bring us breakfast. Each day he would cook us something different, usually quite spicy but hey we wanted authentic Indian food and we were given it along with croissant, jam and other delights. Nikhil would arrive shortly after breakfast to check that all was well and to ask if we wanted Nehru to take us somewhere in his auto rickshaw. Nehru is one of the gentlest, kindest men I’ve ever met. He even rang us just after we got off the plane in Delhi from Jodhpur to check we’d arrived safely.

Courtyard and stunning backdrop at Bristow's Haveli in Jodhpur

Our ritual after breakfast was first of all to walk round the roof top to check out was happening with our neighbours and also to admire the view of the fort. It’s another world up there;  people drying papads (poppadoms) on their roof, children playing table tennis (true), someone regularly checking that his caged birds are alright oh and not forgetting the neighbour opposite doing his morning exercises and waving at us at the same time. I’ve already mentioned about the monkeys in a previous Blog …they only called in one morning but Nikhil was up there very quickly to shoo them away with the help of a very loud banger (firework). If the mornings at the Haveli sound interesting, well they are. You wouldn’t get all this in a modern hotel in the city.

The 'eyrie' and chill out place at Bristow's Haveli in Jodhpur

One of our favourite spots to sit was in what we called ‘The Eyrie’. Actually scores of eagles soar around the fort so the name is quite appropriate. As soon as we got back to the Haveli Abjez would ask us if we wanted a beer …of course we did! Up the two sets of steps he’d come, balancing his tray with beer, glasses and always a plate of fruit. Yes we were thoroughly spoilt!

One part of Bristow's Haveli in Jodhpur

The larger picture show one of the lovely cool areas in the Haveli and the top three is  our suite taken as we arrived in the evening. We loved the ‘swan towels’.

One of the suites at Bristow's Haveli in Jodhpur

There were two other guests staying during the first two days of our stay and they were as enchanted as we were with everything. Their suite was more spacious than ours and had a balcony which was the perfect chill-out place. Nikhil suggested we move in once the girls had left but we loved our rooms so much, even the lure of the balcony didn’t persuade us. I did as you see take some pictures of this suite which was as delightful as ours.

Some of the fascinating features in Bristow's Haveli in Jodhpur

There are many beautiful objects dotted around the Haveli, here are a few of my favourites. I especially loved all the lamps and the wall hangings.

A peaceful evening at Bristow's Haveli in Jodhpur with a super moon

The courtyard in the evening is magical and so peaceful. I don’t know how often they have stunning sunsets over Jodhpur or whether we were just lucky. For three of the five nights we stayed the sunset was magnificent. As a photographer you can imagine how excited I was and how many shots I took. On our last night not only did we have a superb sunset, there was a full moon too, a super moon! My little Panasonic camera did very well to pick it up but I wished I’d had my Canon with me with it’s long lens .  Photographers are never satisfied my other half says! Actually as you can probably tell  we were completely satisfied with everything at Bristow’s Haveli   If you happen to be visiting Jodhpur this is the place to stay. Thank you Nikhil, Abjez and Nehru for looking after us – what a team!

Last day in Jodhpur

It was our last full day in Jodhpur and so we decided to take a trip into the countryside.

Our very chatty driver had a planned itinerary which made the trip easy for us. The first stop was a visit to a Bishnoi family. Bishnoi is a Hindu religious sect found in the Western Thar Desert and northern states of India. I found out more about this sect when we got home and it’s fascinating. Their diet is totally vegetarian and amongst other principles they have a ban on killing animals and provide protection to all life forms. They make sure that the firewood they use hasn’t any small insects and they don’t wear blue clothes  because the dye for colouring them is obtained by cutting large quantities of shrubs. Unlike other followers of Hinduism they bury their dead rather than cremate them as they have a very strict ban on cutting down trees.

Their lifestyle is very basic including living in round mud huts with a grassy roof. Not only a basic life but a healthy one too. The head of the household and his wife were both eighty-seven apparently and very fit. No problem for them sitting crossed-leg on the floor or grinding the corn using a very heavy grinding wheel! We also had a demo by the elder on how to make liquid opium! Didn’t taste too bad either. Wish I hadn’t worn my blue cotton top though!

P1040109_Jodhpur environs Dec 2017

P1040131_Jodhpur environs Dec 2017

The wildlife in the area is amazing too. Antelopes, gazelle, blue bulls and some very large birds which I think were cranes. Anyway they made an amazing sight when they took off.

P1040156_Jodhpur environs Dec 2017

Despite the fact that families on the tourist trail are happy to have their picture taken, the Bishnoi are very private people and dislike having cameras pointed at them. For the picture at the top of this Blog and the one below I had to work quickly. I never like taking pictures of people who aren’t happy about it but I couldn’t resist capturing a couple of shots of their wonderful saris.

P1040168_Jodhpur environs Dec 2017

We enjoyed the morning although we felt guilty that we bought so little at the pottery place and nothing at all at the block printing workshop even though both guys gave us an interesting demo. We felt a bit trapped but if there’s nothing you want and it’s the last day …what can you do? However …on the way back just as we’d got near to the city our driver asked if we wanted to stop at an embroidery place. We weren’t that bothered as by now we could do with a cold beer back at the Haveli but we said okay and that we wouldn’t be long. It turned out that this place was a large warehouse full of the most beautiful textiles, they were stunning. An hour later we left with a gorgeous Indian wall hanging and a silk bed throw to die for! It was a great way to finish our trip!

 

Staying in beautiful Jodhpur (Part 2)

Walking round Jodhpur can get pretty exhausting what with the heat, the traffic and the crowded streets. Fortunately we found a great little place with a quiet courtyard that served a good lunch. We went back there one evening and had the best veggie curry ever, but this time on the roof terrace after climbing up several floors on stairs with no handrail!

Anyway after our lunch we decided to head out of town to escape the crowds with a first stop at Panchkunda Cenotaphs. Nikhil at our Haveli had told us that tourists don’t know about this place and he was right, we had it virtually to ourselves apart from a couple of local lads. As you can see, these monuments are really something and according to the notice Jodhpur queens were cremated here. It’s often used now for a film set and we could see why.

P1030863_Jodhpur environs Dec 2017

Our next stop was Mandore Gardens. Not a place to go if you don’t like monkeys, they are pretty much everywhere. One or two tourists thought it would be a good idea to feed them but soon realised these guys aren’t the friendliest on the planet. The black and white picture on the right has got to be the funniest I’ve taken all year …just the way he was sitting was hilarious.

As we walked towards the temple in the centre of the gardens a family latched onto us and gave us offerings to make to the Gods in the temple. We weren’t sure how to play this but their little lad showed us. Afterwards we walked outside and saw a woman virtually wringing her hands into a fire which was just outside the temple. Fire is a principal element and apparently she was doing this to wish good luck to the wedding couple who had suddenly appeared. They proceeded to walk round the fire, attached to them was a pink cotton band, again all symbolic. At a Hindu marriage the couple must walk round the fire seven times, clockwise, which of course they did. A great moment to witness.

P1040010_Jodhpur environs Dec 2017

P1040022_Jodhpur environs Dec 2017

P1040030_Jodhpur environs Dec 2017

Walking out of the gardens towards the gates we noticed a very serious game of cards going on plus a group of women sat on the pavement selling jewellery and one very bored child.

P1040064_Jodhpur environs Dec 2017

It was good to get out of the city for a while and even better to sit in the eerie at our Haveli drinking beer and chilling out. All peaceful until … wouldn’t you know it …within five minutes there were blinking monkeys jumping across the roof tops including ours, bold as brass. They are so skittish, destructive and cheeky and a law unto themselves. Bangers, as in fireworks are about the only thing that will send them scurrying away. Glad we haven’t got these in the Cotswolds!

P1040068_Jodhpur environs Dec 2017

 

On to Jodhpur via the Jain Temple at Ranakpur.

P1030607_Jodhpur Dec 2017

It was an interesting drive to Jodhpur. The views going over the hills were stunning and the monkeys at the side of the road were an added bonus. You might spot in this monkey picture that we almost had one in the taxi with us as his paw grabbed the top of the window …we quickly closed it. They only looked cute from a distance!

P1030591_Jodhpur Dec 2017

Our first stop was by a watering hole where the oxen were raising the water to irrigate the nearby field using a centuries-old system. We were equally fascinated by the farmer in the other field  who was tilling his land using a wooden plough pulled by two very lean looking bullocks. Tough work eaking out a living in this terrain and climate and using what we would consider very primitive methods to work the land.

 

P1030608_Jodhpur Dec 2017

P1030614_Jodhpur Dec 2017

P1030614_Jodhpur Dec 2017-1

P1030629_Jodhpur Dec 2017

We arrived at the Jain Temple just a few minutes before it opened to the public. Enough time to read the board listing all the regulations of which there are many. Inside there are guards making sure visitors stay inside the designated areas and although photography is allowed even pointing your camera at the inner sanctum gets me a sharp rebuke from a guard.

This temple constructed entirely of marble is stunning. Each pillar is a work of art and apparently there are 1444 of them! The ceilings are intricately carved too. If you’re travelling between Jodhpur and Udaipur don’t miss visiting this Jain temple at Ranakpur, it’s well worth it.

P1030637_Jodhpur Dec 2017

Our last stop before arriving in Jodhpur was down to me asking the driver to pull in to see what this guy was doing. You can see in the black and white picture that he has a wooden structure attached to a pole going into the ground and the oxen walking round which turned the central pole. He was blindfolded, the animal that is, so I was more concerned about him than what the guy was producing. I was told the blindfold meant that the animal wouldn’t get dizzy and was assured that it had regular breaks. (I’m gullible enough to believe this!). I can’t tell you what the ‘sticky gooh’ was but there were plenty of people stopping to buy a bag of it. John and I both had a taste and yes, it was delicious, if a bit too sugary.

P1030693_Jodhpur Dec 2017

At last we arrived in Jodhpur, the city known for its many iconic blue buildings. As soon as we were met by our auto rickshaw driver, Nehru, who had the most wonderful warm, welcoming smile we knew that our five days here was going to be great!